The little island of Gozo now came in sight ahead, warning us that we
were approaching our port. At day-break we saw the island of Malta, and
ran for the western extremity, after which we stood along the northern
coast for the harbor of Valette. The island appeared of a moderate
height, but I could hardly discern a tree or any marks of cultivation.
Watch-towers at regular intervals along the shore, and some rude
structures in the interior, were all that appeared to diversify the
landscape. As we approached the harbor, we discovered a fleet of
small boats putting off to meet us, and we were soon surrounded by
them. The men were a wild-looking set, tawny and stout, wearing brown
woollen caps that hung down over their shoulders. They rowed standing,
instead of sitting, as our boatmen do. The boats were very neatly
built, of olivewood, with high and ornamented prows. They were painted
of a bright vermilion in the bows, and it is remarkable that Homer
describes the ancient Grecian ships as painted in the same manner. A
loud clamor and hubbub of voices now rose around us. All the boatmen
had some service to offer. One offered a pilot, another offered to tow
us into the harbor, which is highly necessary here, on account of the
narrowness of the entrance. Others were ready to supply us with fresh
provisions, fruit, &c., and others wanted our clothes to wash. Every
vessel that arrives is beset in the same manner, and the number of
persons who depend for a living upon what they get for these services
must be quite large.
As we approached the entrance of the harbor, we came suddenly in sight
of the city of Valette, with its castle and fortifications. They stand
close to the sea, and burst upon the spectator before he is aware.
We were much struck with their noble and commanding appearance--and
the bells of the city chiming merrily at the time, the agreeable
sensations they inspired were still further heightened. It was a great
mortification to us, however, to find that we were to be subjected to a
quarantine of more than a week. For this purpose our vessel was taken
into that part of the harbor adjoining the lazaretto, where we were
brought to anchor, and treated with a prospect of the shore close at
hand without the privilege of setting foot upon it for a week to come.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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