This rests upon the main body of the mountain, like a dome upon a gigantic edifice. It is too steep to be climbed, even by donkeys or mules, besides, being of too loose materials to afford a footing for these animals. It consists of coarse gravel, loose stones and cinders, thrown out by the mountain with as steep a slope as such loose materials can possibly lie in. Here we found a large number of the above mentioned animals waiting for their riders, who had gone up. Our party dismounted and began the ascent. I found it exceedingly toilsome. What with the steepness of the surface and the treacherous footing to my steps, I was constantly slipping backward, and losing by one step what I had gained in a dozen. But what was done with our fair companion? Ladies without number had gone to the top of the mountain, and she was resolved not to be outdone by any one of them. Ladies have never been considered deficient in curiosity; and the mountaineers have a contrivance by which they can be gratified in their desire to visit the summit of Vesuvius. Three or four stout fellows harness themselves with a strong leather strap, which they pass around the lady’s waist and then march onward, drawing her after them. In this manner our fair attendant managed to ascend the steep and slippery road up to the crater. About half way up we met another party, likewise with a lady. She had less strength or resolution than our friend, for she had given out, and was on the point of returning. This great cone, when viewed from a distance, seems to taper off almost to a point; yet, on reaching the top, we found ourselves among heaps of enormous lava crags extending widely around, with columns and jets of white smoke streaming up from the clefts and spiracles here and there. We groped our way among these black and threatening masses, and presently came upon a party of travellers, seated upon a crag, eating their dinner. The air was cool on the mountain top, and they had fixed themselves in a comfortable spot, where they were roasting eggs in a hot crack of the lava! It costs nothing for fire here. The mountaineers came round us with baskets of fruit, bottles of wine, &c., to sell. They drive a profitable trade with hungry travellers at the top of Vesuvius. People whose heads are full of curiosity, are not apt to higgle about prices, when they can purchase a comfortable mouthful in so strange a place as the summit of a volcano. CHAPTER XVIII. _Description of the crater.--Prospect from the top.--Accident in the descent of the mountain.--Visit to Torre del Greco.--Singular life led by the inhabitants.--Remarkable situation of a powder-house._