It was on the 23rd of July that the land reappeared in the southwest
near Cape Virgins at the entrance of the Straits of Magellan. Under the
fifty-second parallel at this time of year the night was eighteen hours
long and the temperature was six below freezing.
At first the “Albatross.” instead of keeping on to the south, followed
the windings of the coast as if to enter the Pacific. After passing
Lomas Bay, leaving Mount Gregory to the north and the Brecknocks to the
west, they sighted Puerto Arena, a small Chilean village, at the moment
the churchbells were in full swing; and a few hours later they were
over the old settlement at Port Famine.
If the Patagonians, whose fires could be seen occasionally, were really
above the average in stature, the passengers in the aeronef were unable
to say, for to them they seemed to be dwarfs. But what a magnificent
landscape opened around during these short hours of the southern day!
Rugged mountains, peaks eternally capped with snow, with thick forests
rising on their flanks, inland seas, bays deep set amid the peninsulas,
and islands of the Archipelago. Clarence Island, Dawson Island, and the
Land of Desolation, straits and channels, capes and promontories, all
in inextricable confusion, and bound by the ice in one solid mass from
Cape Forward, the most southerly point of the American continent, to
Cape Horn the most southerly point of the New World.
When she reached Fort Famine the “Albatross” resumed her course to the
south. Passing between Mount Tam on the Brunswick Peninsula and Mount
Graves, she steered for Mount Sarmiento, an enormous peak wrapped in
snow, which commands the Straits of Magellan, rising six thousand four
hundred feet from the sea. And now they were over the land of the
Fuegians, Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire. Six months later, in the
height of summer, with days from fifteen to sixteen hours long, how
beautiful and fertile would most of this country be, particularly in
its northern portion! Then, all around would be seen valleys and
pasturages that could form the feeding-grounds of thousands of animals;
then would appear virgin forests, gigantic trees-birches, beeches,
ash-trees, cypresses, tree-ferns—and broad plains overrun by herds of
guanacos, vicunas, and ostriches. Now there were armies of penguins and
myriads of birds; and, when the “Albatross” turned on her electric
lamps the guillemots, ducks, and geese came crowding on board enough to
fill Tapage’s larder a hundred times and more.
Here was work for the cook, who knew how to bring out the flavor of the
game and keep down its peculiar oiliness. And here was work for
Frycollin in plucking dozen after dozen of such interesting feathered
friends.
That day, as the sun was setting about three o’clock in the afternoon,
there appeared in sight a large lake framed in a border of superb
forest. The lake was completely frozen over, and a few natives with
long snowshoes on their feet were swiftly gliding over it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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