Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The south-west ridge is called the Gavel Neese (Gable Nose), showing
from Wastdale Head as a rounded grassy shoulder leading directly
towards the peak. Up this shoulder we may make the shortest ascent of
Gable from Wastdale, avoiding the easy crags of White Napes that face
us where the upper limit of the grass is passed, by skirting round the
screes on the left. An ancient path with the strange name of Moses’
Sledgate leads up Gavel Neese till the level of Beckhead is nearly
reached, and then bears away on a traverse over the screes round to
the middle of the Ennerdale side of the mountain, there to lose itself
in the wilderness of stones that are bestrewn all over that desolate
region.
The remaining ridge to the south-east is scarcely definite enough to be
worthy the name, though from Wastdale it seems to be at least as well
marked as Gavel Neese. It leads towards the Styhead pass (1,579 feet)
and offers a quick route to the top. Mr. Haskett Smith suggests ‘half
an hour’s rough walking,’ but that pace is too severe for most walkers.
Of the four faces of the pyramid the north and south are precipitous,
the west offers very little scope for the cragsman’s skill, and the
east absolutely none. The north or Ennerdale face is practically a
single, exposed section of some 400 feet of rock, seamed with traverses
and split with numerous gullies and chimneys. The south face is of a
complicated design. Springing up from the 2,000-feet level, the Great
Napes appears in the centre of the south face as a great rock screen
belonging to the main mass of Gable. In reality it is well separated
off by deep hollows cutting behind it to right and left. The highest
point of the Napes is connected with the upper crags of Gable by the
crest separating these two hollows, either of which may be followed
down in safety by benighted wanderers who are past all wish to avoid
screes, and whose one desire is to reach a low level in some inhabited
valley.
Let us more happily suppose for the present that we are upward bound
and desirous of circumventing Great Napes. We can observe from Wastdale
Head the line of lighter scree that comes down either side of the
Napes. That to the left leads through a beautiful natural gateway
between White Napes and Great Napes, and thence trends to the right up
to the summit ridge connecting the latter to the final crags of Gable.
The streak of reddish scree to the east leads up through larger portals
into the very heart of the mountain, penetrating round to the back of
the Napes, and thence up by the left to the same summit ridge. This
hollow is floored with small red scree that glows with a marvellous
richness of colour in the sunlight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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