Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
At last we reached a pinnacle that promised us variety. We tried to
climb up it by the outside edge, but found the ice too troublesome.
Then, when resting on the shoulder half way up, we saw a deep and
narrow cavern in the mountain wall behind the pinnacle. Surely that
must be the object of our quest and our pinnacle the redoubtable
‘bottle-shaped.’ Eagerly we scrambled over the shoulder and down a
slight gully on to the scree that issues from the mouth of the cavern.
It was getting dark, and we were very hungry. My jacket pocket still
held the crumbs of a pulverized biscuit that I had taken up Snowdon
the week before. These and a fragment of chocolate we scrupulously
shared, and then began the attack in earnest. The conditions had much
changed since Dr. Collier had effected his ascent, and though the
gully overhangs too much to permit any drift snow to settle in it, the
smooth walls of the gully were black and shiny with ice, and the damp
cold of this dark hole tried our endurance to the utmost. It must be
admitted that my ascent of the first part was slow and ungraceful. I
had started with my back resting against the left wall, bracing my feet
as firmly as the ice would permit against the diminutive knobs on the
opposite side. Now in this position the back cannot be worked up an
overhanging wall unless the hands have something definite to thrust
against. The process went on fairly well for about twenty-five feet,
working outwards as well as upwards, but then the two sides of the
chimney became perilously far apart and the smooth left wall commenced
to overhang.
Then ensued a few moments of awkward suspense, an uncertainty as to
the best method of transferring one’s weight to certain small ledges
against which the feet were now pressing.
The process of ‘backing up’ is excessively fatiguing, the thrust
necessary to hold oneself firmly _in situ_ being as a rule much greater
than the equivalent of one’s weight, and the whole of this thrust being
at every slight lift transmitted through the arms. He who fails to
realize the attitude I am describing may easily perform an experiment
that illustrates the mechanical principles involved, by sitting down
across a doorway or narrow passage, and attempting to work upwards by
pressure of the feet against one side and back against the other. If,
when some three feet from the ground, he waits a minute or two and
then attempts to move again, either up or down, he will perceive that
the simple holding in place has tired his muscles and made advance or
retreat equally difficult.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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