Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Loose earthy steps led to the foot of the wall, and for a moment we
thought with some apprehension that the first part was going to be
seriously troublesome. At a height of twenty-five feet or so some
narrow splintered boulders completely filled up the crack and overhung
considerably. Just below them the climbing was obviously awkward,
by reason of the footholds that were not there, if the ancient
Hibernianism may be tolerated, and the necessary leverage on the
boulders when we were using them for all they were worth would imperil
their stability and our own. But after mounting the first twelve feet
with, perhaps, more case than we had anticipated, a narrow ledge showed
up on the right wall for about ten feet, and we noticed with relief
that at its further extremity another traverse led back to the crack
in a slanting direction to a point just above the critical spot. This
diversion we promptly accepted, and found it altogether satisfactory.
The lower ledge was just wide enough for the feet, and handholds just
good enough for the balance of the body during the transfer. At the
further end it was easy scrambling to the upper ledge, which showed
itself as a broad and safe path to a little niche where the crack was
somewhat enlarged. The floor of the niche was formed of loose stones
supported on the larger jammed blocks that had affrighted us below,
and was sufficiently commodious for all the party to place themselves
securely thereon. Probably the next part of the climb was the hardest.
That, at any rate, was the opinion of those who had recommended the
route to us, and after their kindly advice we were gratefully prepared
to accept anything from them in the way of opinion. The chimney was
vertical and its two walls almost holdless.
Direct progress seemed barred by three thick plates of rock wedged into
the crack and projecting outwards some three or four feet. Over these
we had to make our way, and if their edges proved to be unsatisfactory
for the fingers to grip or the arms to clasp, then we should have to
return with the ignominy of defeat. On the one hand appearances were
against us; the pitch looked impossible. But on the other we knew it
had been climbed once or twice before, and assuredly under no better
conditions than were vouchsafed to ourselves. Far away down at the
foot of the gully we noticed a couple of men who had been walking
Wastdale-wards after a hard day, but were gazing up at us in some
curiosity to know how we were going to tackle our problem. It would
never do to go back now.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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