Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The Needle Gully has two separate branches leading to the crest of
the Napes, neither of them particularly difficult or interesting.
The Eagle’s Nest Gully is in summer time little more than a scree
walk. So likewise is the main Arrowhead Gully, which, however, has
a branch up to the left leading to a fine-looking chimney and out
on to the open face two-thirds of the way up towards the ridge. To
the west of the Arrowhead Gully the Napes is much less imposing, and
though small gullies cut it up considerably they are too indefinite to
particularize.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
GREAT GABLE FROM LINGMELL
(_Face page 146_)]
The chief _arêtes_ on the face are, taking them in order from east to
west, the Needle ridge immediately to the right of the Needle Gully;
the Eagle’s Nest ridge between the Eagle’s Nest Gully and the Needle
Gully; and the Arrowhead ridge between the Eagle’s Nest Gully and the
Arrowhead Gully. All these _arêtes_ offer most enjoyable climbs. The
Gable Needle (or Napes Needle) is a sharp pinnacle rising vertically
from the lower part of the Needle ridge. It is a climb for experts
only, with steady heads. The Bear rock is a smaller pinnacle a few
yards to the west of the foot of Arrowhead Gully. Its ascent is a
simple problem in rock-climbing--a pull up with the arms from the notch
at the back--but it is worth visiting on account of its singular aspect.
THE ARROWHEAD GULLY is almost entirely devoid of interest.
It has not often been visited, for the reason that its material is
loose, its one pitch is easy, and the neighbourhood is very rich in
more inviting climbs. A large party went up it last April and were
exceedingly unhappy so long as a single member remained in it. Our
interest had been concentrated on the Eagle’s Nest ridge, and after
some considerable time had been spent about the crags, we found
ourselves at the foot of the Arrowhead Gully, afflicted with the
unanimous desire to reach the summit of the Napes by a way that none of
us had attempted before. There remained to us this gully and its branch
up by the left. It soon became manifest that we should have to divide,
for the place was too small to hold us, and too narrow to permit free
passage of loose stones that the higher members almost immediately
began to dislodge. We lunched a few feet up the left branch, and were
decidedly uncomfortable during our hasty meal. The ledges that we had
chosen were so uncertain and the scree below so steep that all were
glad when the sandwiches were finished and preparations commenced for
roping-up. My own section of the party elected to follow the branch
to its abrupt ending out on the face. The others kept to the main
gully, and were busy chimney-sweeping most of their time. Their one
pitch was straightforward, but loose blocks abounded and required
careful treatment so long as their fall might endanger the safety of
any one. Over would go a boulder as soon as the last man had passed
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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