Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The second part of the Needle Ridge begins with a vertical wall of
rock that from below appears very formidable. With ice about it is
certainly difficult, and the traverse to the gully on the left is the
wisest course to pursue under such conditions. But on close inspection
a square corner discloses itself in the wall, and the fifteen feet of
scrambling in the cleft are perfectly straightforward. At the top of
the wall the ridge is broken up in a wonderful way, and huge blocks are
distributed along the route in great profusion. The climbing becomes
very easy, though retaining its interest to the finish at the top of
the Napes; and the whole ascent may be disposed of summarily in half an
hour from the Needle notch.
[Illustration:
G. P. Abraham & Sons, Photos. Keswick
THE UPPER PART OF THE NEEDLE RIDGE
(_Face page 156_)]
THE EAGLE’S NEST RIDGE was climbed on April 15, 1892, by a
strong party of cragsmen. They were led by Mr. G. A. Solly, who was
well backed up by Mr. Cecil Slingsby. They left a record of the
expedition in the Wastdale book, and let the climbing fraternity
decide for themselves as to whether the ascent was worth repeating.
No exception can be taken to the rocks, which are perfectly sound
and reliable, but an inspection of the ridge from the Needle shows how
little hold there is for hands or feet. Moreover, the hardest part
is so situated that a safe descent from it is well-nigh impossible
for the unlucky leader who finds his strength or skill inadequate to
cope with it. Nevertheless, I have recently discovered that with an
exact knowledge of the available holds, and with the best conditions
of the rocks, a man may safely tackle the ascent if well supported
by a sturdy second. The situation is terribly exposed for the first
140 feet, and will try the nerves of even experienced mountaineers.
Dependence is often placed on small footholds that slope slightly to
the climber’s disadvantage; and on such ledges good nailed boots and
perfect confidence are essential. The fact is that the ridge is not
to be recommended; and its virtue is that there is no deception about
it. The clean sweep of the sharp nose of rock from the green platform
at the foot up to the patch of grass where the slanting chimney begins
scares everybody away, tyros and experts alike. That almost vertical
buttress looks impossible, and to nearly everybody it is so.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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