Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
This route to the recess we shall now briefly describe, suggesting at
the same time that no man should attempt to lead up it who has not
already explored the ground with the safeguard of a rope from above.
From the horizontal grass platform at the foot of the climb a narrow
cleft runs up to the ridge in such a way as to separate off the first
fifteen feet from the main mass. The cleft is mounted with facility
by aid of numerous holds of first-rate quality. At the top we find
ourselves on the strict ridge, but after mounting ten feet the holds
disappear entirely, and the verticalness of the next seven or eight
feet makes a slight divergence absolutely necessary. On the face of the
ridge that bounds the Needle Gully below us two parallel cracks run
up steeply about a yard apart. They are so closed, and they run so
obliquely up the wall, that good foothold is impossible in either, and
handhold of even moderate quality requires much seeking. Nevertheless,
they are both of immense importance, and are capable of giving all
the required aid. The leader should here be joined by the second, and
should belay himself to the highest effective part of the broken rock
below him. His companion should be belayed independently. Then his next
move is to work up for three feet on to the right-hand crack, with his
fingers gripping the other, until the latter is felt to be good enough
for a pull towards the ridge. The transfer of the right foot into the
crack on the left is critical. I prefer to effect the passage without
boots, as the toes can feel so much better where the crack is deepest.
Then the outside edge a yard away to the left is within reach of the
hand, and the leader, cut off from further assistance below, must
manage very carefully to climb on to the ridge.
His holds are obvious; the difficulty is not so much in finding the
way as in keeping to it. Fortunately a little flat platform is now
reached, on which he can sit in comfort and recover his strength
before attacking the next part. It is at about the level of the top of
the Gable Needle, and Mr. Slingsby tells me it is the spot that the
first climbers named the Eagle’s Nest. It is just visible against the
sky in the view facing page 153, 3-1/2 inches from the foot of the
illustration. The awkward part first ascended is scarcely twelve
feet high, but is exceptionally severe if the leader takes it without
the assistance of a second.
[Illustration:
PLATE V.
THE ARROWHEAD RIDGE. THE EAGLE’S NEST RIDGE. THE NEEDLE RIDGE.
From the South-east. From the South-east. From the North-west.
_a_ Eagle’s Nest.
_b_ Easy Chimney Route.
_c_ Finish along the Ridge.
_dd_ Severest Portion.
_e_ Ling Chimney.
THE GREAT NAPES RIDGES.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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