Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Viewing this Arrowhead from the easy ground near the Bear rock, it is
seen to bear some resemblance to the Gable Needle (see Chapter XI.). In
each case the rock forms the lower extremity of a Napes ridge, and its
sides are remarkable for their steepness and smoothness. The outside
edge of each is broken by a well-marked shoulder, and the head of the
Arrow may be fairly well likened to the top overhanging boulder on the
Needle. Here, perhaps, the resemblance ends. Certain parts of the
climbing on the Arrowhead must be characterized as insecure, whereas
the Needle is firm throughout. The former may easily be attacked from
the notch behind it, the Needle cannot be similarly treated. The
original climb up to the shoulder on the Arrowhead was by a recess on
the east side, that up the Needle by a narrow crack on the west. (See
photograph facing page 153.)
The first ascent dates from April, 1892, when a large party attacked
the rock on the lines just indicated. The lower part of the buttress
was mounted by a steep and open recess on the western side, a good
climb leading directly to the shoulder half-way up, where the route
was joined by the upper end of a corresponding chimney on the other
side of the buttress. Thence the climbing was straight up the corner.
It was not very difficult, but at a point a few feet below the final
bit the rocks were insecure and the situation alarming. The stones
are better now than formerly, but great caution must be used. In 1893
another party repeated the ascent, and showed that it was possible by
passing round to the gap at the back to continue the climb along the
ridge. The usual route nowadays is to reach the ridge by the scree
gully between the Arrowhead and the Eagle’s Nest _arête_, climbing
up the side wall to the notch, and so avoiding the Arrowhead itself.
The wall is steep, but its ledges are conveniently disposed, and no
trouble should be experienced in the ascent. Once on the ridge the
climbing is delightful. The holds are good, and the narrowness of the
crest along which we pass gives the spice of sensationalism that at
all times offers an apology for easy climbing. The actual ascent of
the ridge need take but twenty minutes, the descent about half an hour
for a party of three, when conditions are favourable. There is one
_mauvais pas_ of moderate quality: a wall of ten feet must be mounted
to reach the crest of a tower on the ridge. Then follows a long stride
across the gap on the other side, and it is sometimes amusing to watch
the timid climber who fears that he may not be able to swing the hind
leg over when in the colossus attitude half-way across. Above this all
difficulties soon disappear; the gullies on either side rapidly rise to
our own level, and the ridge ends shortly before the crest of the Napes
is reached.
The view facing page 153 shows the Arrowhead at the left-hand top
corner, the Eagle’s Nest Ridge against the sky, the lower half of the
Needle Ridge, and the Gable Needle itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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