Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The account of this crack has been given in much detail. It is the sort
of thing for a strong party to climb on their way out of Wastdale, or
some afternoon after a wet morning’s imprisonment in the hotel. The
danger of the first pitch can be minimised for the leader by holding
him with the rope from the right-hand recess of the wall. In fact there
is a pinnacle in this recess at about the level of the niche, which
could be utilized as a holding-place. A shoulder to start from and an
ice-axe support in continuation are certain to be appreciated. Messrs.
Reade and McCulloch have lately shown that the niche can be reached
by the crack. On the worst bit which immediately follows I expect a
steadying hand from below will be generally necessary.
When a man can go up this without assistance from above he may well be
regarded as fit for the Grépon crack. This latter is of the same length
and general character. It is easier, but harder to enter, and it comes
after more climbing; moreover, there may be ice in it to create trouble.
KERN KNOTTS, WEST CHIMNEY.--A note may here be added concerning
the only remaining chimney on these crags that can claim to be a
distinctive feature visible at a distance. It is about sixty feet to
the north-west (or Wastdale side) of the ordinary route, and is plainly
discernible from the lower part of the Styhead path. A diminutive cairn
now marks the foot of the chimney; another stands on a flat ledge a
couple of yards above the narrowest and hardest portion of the climb.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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