Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
sunlight the effects are most remarkable.
From the climbing point of view this continual weathering is altogether
unsatisfactory. The rocks are too uncertain, and in most cases the
gullies are too much occupied by scree. But towards the lower end of
the lake we find that certain different conditions obtain. The rocks
are firmer, there is less scree at their base, and it shows plainly by
its grass covering that the fresh supply is strictly limited.
The last great bastion of the high ridge rises opposite Wastdale Hall.
It is cut off from the crags on the left by the Great Gully, which
runs up to the sky-line through a height of a thousand feet. On the
right a slighter gully practically indicates the end of the precipitous
portion of the face. Cutting deeply into the centre of the bastion
itself is a third gully that is continued straight on to the sky-line;
if anything it is a few feet shorter than the Great Gully, though much
more difficult to climb. I propose to describe these two only. From all
accounts it would appear that they represent fully the satisfactory
routes up the Screes. The sketch in Haskett Smith’s book shows them as
B and C (the reader can let B stand for ‘big’ and C for ‘central’).
That which is marked A in his sketch is no climb at all. It is just
a gully and nothing more, but it was not quite so worthy of being
labelled as the next great one to the left.
The B gully was first climbed in the winter of 1891-2 by Messrs.
Collie, Hastings, and Robinson, and an interesting account of
the ascent, contributed by Dr. Collie, appeared in the ‘Scottish
Mountaineering Journal’ for January, 1894. A year later Mr. Mummery
made the second ascent. Not so long afterwards Robinson showed me the
way up with a large party of enthusiasts, whose strength and nerve were
pretty well exhausted by the time we dragged ourselves over the last
pitch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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