Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
It was straightforward climbing out from the cave and up to the
vertical buttress. But the absence of suitable holds in the crack on
the left made the next twenty feet very severe, and I was glad to find
at last a series of ledges across to the top of the cave. The holds
were wet and my fingers benumbed. If the ledges had been anything but
satisfactory the traverse would have been highly incorrect, not to
say immoral. Then the rope had to be lengthened out and the wait was
unpleasant. But the rock slope was a much simpler matter than it had
appeared to be from below, and the rest of the pitch was scarcely more
than a walk. I drew up over the last block with much relief, and paused
to recover warmth and feeling before drawing in the rope for Bowen. He
climbed with great rapidity and practically left out the traverse; it
was rather vexatious to find that he emerged fresh and comparatively
dry. It was now 12-34 P.M., and so far we had advanced rapidly.
A few feet in front was a long thin crack, looking easy but proving
awkward at close quarters. We found it best to traverse up the smooth
slab on the left and then crawl along a rickety ledge of grass and
rock back to the gully again. Were we nevermore to find an easy
piece? Almost at once a ninth pitch faced us, looking somewhat like
the eighth. The gully suddenly narrows to a V-groove which springs
up vertically for twelve feet, then slopes away at 45° for twenty
feet, and finally is blocked by a few boulders before widening out
again. Just before the constriction occurs, the walls of the ravine
slope outwards at an easy angle, and the tangle of thickly-matted
grass disguises the treacherous character of the rock underneath.
This has been splintered and loosened by frost and sturdy vegetation.
Great masses in many steep places are ready to fall at a touch,
and scrambling is robbed of its pleasures by the sense of possible
insecurity of every available hold. I tried at first to keep up the
crack, but just at the corner where it trends obliquely upwards the
difficulties of holding on proved too great and a cautious descent
had to be effected. Then we looked to the left up a steep little gully
fifty feet high. It ended abruptly in the main wall of the ravine,
but a great splinter of rock at the highest corner gave us a chance
of belaying. Bowen clambered gingerly over the broken ground and tied
himself to the rock. Then, slipping my rope round it, he prepared to
hold me during the next move. Our plan was to clamber up the loose
face on the left of the awkward pitch and traverse into the gully
twenty-five feet higher. My rope was dragging along the wall, and would
have dislodged a good deal if suddenly called upon to break my fall.
The worst bit was the last six feet of traverse, which I very much
loosened during the passage. The gully was then bestridden and both
sides used for the finishing portion of the pitch. When Bowen came
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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