Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE RAKE END CHIMNEY.--Besides the third chimney described by
Gwynne as running half-way up on to the ledge, there is a short but
excellent route up the crags starting near the foot of Jack’s Rake. The
following note was supplied by Mr. Claude Barton:--‘The climb is in two
pitches, the first being broken up into places where you can play up a
second man. The _mauvais pas_ is just at the top of this. A moss-grown
wall and two jammed stones must be surmounted, and the leader may need
some support. The second pitch is a fine chimney blocked by a large
stone that is passed by the interior, and then used as a take-off for
the final easy concluding portion. The climb is certainly harder than
the Great Gully.’
CHAPTER XV
_DOE CRAG, CONISTON_
This happy hunting-ground for the rock-climber is within an hour’s
walk of Coniston. It forms part of the range of hills that includes
Wetherlam and the Old Man, but unlike these great neighbours it has
hitherto been left untouched by miners and quarry-men.
From the Old Man we may look westwards across the upper end of Goat’s
Water, and see the summit of Doe Crag almost at our level, some 900
feet above the lake. We are facing its grand precipices, and are in an
excellent position to prospect the various gullies that cut deeply into
the 500-feet wall of rock.
The first of these, as we glance from left to right, causes the
greatest impression in the sky-line, but is of the least interest to
mountaineers. It is an easy scree gully, possessing a rotten pinnacle
that was first climbed by Mr. Slingsby in 1887. The second is generally
known as the Great Gully. It is much longer, and includes a fair
amount of genuine hard work in its ascent. At a distance it appears
to have a Y shape, by reason of the two branches that diverge from a
point about half-way up. The Great Gully was first climbed in July,
1888, by Messrs. Hastings, Haskett Smith, and E. Hopkinson, its first
pitch being then taken by the ‘shallow scoop’ on the left of the great
obstacle. Nearly a year later the brothers Hopkinson effected a direct
ascent of the pitch by an ingenious utilization of the rope, to which
we shall refer subsequently.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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