Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The sixth and last great gully is known as the North Gully, to see
which it is necessary to go well towards Goat’s Hause. Three huge
boulders block up the middle and form the only pitch. The gully was
formerly supposed to be Messrs. Haskett Smith and Robinson’s climb of
1886; actually it is the place where Haskett Smith was let down on a
rope, and gave tribute to the grandeur of the region by remarking on
its ‘terrific aspect.’ In 1895 a party went up what they called the
North Gully, but they encountered no difficulty during their ascent,
and it seems more likely therefore that they climbed a slighter ghyll
between the real North Gully and the Easter Gully. They traversed
into the latter above its difficult chimney. It is hard to say what
exploration has been made here. Mr. Williams and I descended the gully
in 1898, and halted there sufficiently to convince ourselves of the
feasibility of its ascent. But whether the climb has ever been taken
upwards throughout its whole length is an open question.
Climbers should visit Doe Crag more frequently. The rocks give
magnificent sport, the scenery is more than ordinarily impressive
even to the hardened cragsman, and there yet remains a great amount
of exploratory work to be done. Only the gullies have hitherto been
tackled. The buttresses are almost untouched.
THE GREAT GULLY.--The satisfactory part of this climb is that
its greatest difficulty confronts us at the outset. Once the first
pitch is accomplished we are perfectly certain that the combined
skill of the party is sufficient to insure a successful ascent of the
remainder. There is no gradual increase in the technical difficulty of
the subsequent passages, to vex the soul of the conscientious climber
with doubts as to the morality of advancing, when a critical position
might be reached where descent is dangerous and further ascent beyond
his powers. The first pitch is severe, and perhaps a little risky for
the leader, but the remaining four are easy, and the method of tackling
them obvious. This species of gully is suitable for those who tire
quickly, or whose impressions of the work before them depend on the
height they have attained. On the other hand, there are climbers who
like to feel that there is always something serious looming ahead, who
want the troubles to last them all through their climb, and rejoice
in a _bonne bouche_ at the most elevated situation. Such lingering
sweetness they can find in the Central Chimney, but not here; it is
not surprising that many men are satisfied with one visit to the Great
Gully, and never make for it a second time.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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