Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
We followed our watercourse right up to its beginning close to a
little pass over towards Langstrath. In general appearance it somewhat
resembled Piers Ghyll, with its slight gradient and short pitches,
its rotten walls and unavoidable water. But in respect to the last
consideration we were almost exempted from a wetting, for the ghyll was
nearly dry, and only in the direct ascent of one pitch did we run any
risk of a drenching. No doubt the normal state of the gully is very
much worse than we found it.
With hazy impression of a hundred-feet pitch we came provided with two
eighty-feet lengths of rope, but managed our climb with one only. The
first pitch was about fifteen feet high; the left wall was feasible,
the direct climb involved the passage through a dripping cave and out
by a hole in the roof, and the right side of the gully was of steep
grass and insecure rock. We took to the latter, and with care managed
the ascent without dislodging much that might help later climbers.
Above this we had a view of a waterfall about fifty or sixty yards
further up, and inasmuch as the rocks showed signs of nailed boots we
were for some time prevailed upon to believe that we had really found
our quest.
The bed of the stream was rough but easy for a while. Two small pitches
about six feet high scarcely gave us pause before we reached the
foot of the waterfall that we had seen from the first pitch. It was
about twelve yards high; the walls were four or five feet apart, and
glistening with the wet. They did not appear to offer very excellent
holds, but I found it possible to face the fall and utilize as
footholds sundry diminutive ledges on either side. It was a case of
spanning the gully and walking up. About twenty feet from the bottom
the holds on the left wall were somewhat greasy, but a yard higher the
ledges on the right had so much improved that it was a safe venture
to pull over to that side and effect a traverse to the top of the
double obstacle over which the water was falling. While the others
were rapidly following, we were surprised to hear voices from above. I
advanced a little, and discovered two young men perched precariously
on the face of the steep wall to the right. Almost at the same moment
a large stone fell from their feet towards us, and, in an ecstasy of
fear lest they should bombard our last man, who was yet in difficulties
bestriding the gully below, we shouted to them to stay still a bit
and wait for us to advance to a place of safety. Then with all speed
we clambered up to them, and let them down on the rope into the gully
again. They were distinctly in peril; that side of the ghyll was as
treacherous, with its loose splinters of rock and steep unreliable
grass, as it could manage to be without falling by its own weight. The
top was slightly overhanging, and could bear no extra pulling. The men
were inexperienced; one of them had no nails in his boots; they had
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