Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
A yard or two further, over great boulders bestrewn in the bed of
the gully, and we were brought up at the foot of the second great
obstacle. Here the two side walls approached to within a distance of
four feet of each other, and straight down the centre from a height of
seventy feet dripped the weak promise of a second waterfall. Close to
the water it was impossible to ascend, but some ten feet away from it
suitable ledges on either side discovered themselves. These enabled me
to use both walls in a directly vertical ascent for so long as they
were within four feet of each other. Then I pulled over to a crack on
the right and performed a safety wriggle to more open ground above,
whence it was easy to clamber over the big boulders at the top of the
pitch. The second man was asked to prospect the route on the other
side of the left wall, and came up with the report that the traverse
out of the main gully was easy and that the rest of the ascent, about
eighty feet of solid rock, was just comfortable hand-and-foot work
all through. While the third was adopting the same tactics which we
afterwards remembered had been employed by a previous party from
Keswick, I went on to inspect the next obstacle. It certainly was
the worst-looking pitch in the whole ascent. A large cave was formed
by two massive boulders jammed between the narrow walls seventy feet
above our heads. The first-floor of the cave was fifty feet up, and
from its roof dripped the inevitable water-supply to damp our daring
ardour. The walls of the gully were close together and covered with
wet moss. Holds were very scarce, and for a moment we considered the
advisability of working out on the right as others had done before
us, and traversing into the gully above the cave. But a tentative
backing-up in the main chimney gave some hope of success in the direct
attack; and abandoning all idea of making a final exit with dry
garments, I cautiously worked up the inner face of a leaf of rock on
the right wall, the others steadying my feet on sundry infinitesimal
ledges so long as I was within reach, and then supporting me with words
of encouragement and approval. When within six feet of the floor of
the cave it became necessary to wedge well into the chimney, with back
against the left and scanty hold opposite. Then a desperate wriggle
gave me a lift of about eighteen inches and the handholds improved
sufficiently for haulage. Leaving the left wall, I could just thrust
my knee in a corner under the fall, and lever up to the opposite side.
Next a few easy ledges brought me into the cave, and I paused to wring
the moisture from my coat and cap before inviting the others to follow
on. By regarding their manœuvres and subsequent criticism it impressed
me as likely that I might have saved myself some exertion, and perhaps
have better avoided the water, by keeping up the edge of the leaf of
rock instead of attacking its inner face. But that course would expose
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