Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
IRON CRAG CHIMNEY.--Towards the head of the Shoulthwaite Valley,
which is 3-1/2 miles from Keswick, near the road to Ambleside, may be
seen high up on the right-hand side, a magnificent couloir. It runs up
the south side of one of the steepest faces of rock in the district,
and is called, after the rock, Iron Crag Chimney. We had passed in
sight of the Crag scores of times, but the chimney is so cunningly
hidden away on the far side from the road, that it was not until Mr.
J. W. Robinson told us of it, that we dreamt of there being anything
worth climbing there. He and my brother went to prospect it in March,
1896, but found it in such a very bad condition, that after climbing
the comparatively easy first pitch, they were forced to beat a retreat.
They came back, however, with a glowing account of the second pitch,
and spoke very excitedly about ‘“a thing” at least 100 feet high, wet,
mossy, and with an overhanging stone half-way up, from which the water
dropped out four yards into the bed of the gully, 40 feet below.’ They
thought, however, that a small ledge, up to which they had climbed,
would continue far enough along the left wall of the gully to enable
them to traverse well out from under the stone, and so reach the top
of it. Of the nature of the climbing above that they knew nothing, but
were both anxious to try it and confident of success.
Continued bad weather hindered another attempt until June of the same
year, when Mr. F. W. Jackson and I joined the other two and we set out
to attack this formidable ‘hundred-footer.’ The day was fine and the
rocks in perfect condition, and we succeeded in climbing the chimney
throughout. I intend to give more detail of the second ascent; but it
may be as well to mention here that the second pitch only yielded after
several attempts, by more than one member of the party, and only with
the aid of a shoulder, given from the little ledge, was the leader able
to climb to the top of the ‘chock-stone.’ After this another thirty
feet of chimney brought us to the top of the pitch, and great were the
rejoicings that we had, after a very severe struggle, mastered it. I
shall never forget how white the face of one member of the party was
when it appeared over the top of the pitch, how he yelled to us to
‘haul in the taut,’ how he ‘quoth “nevermore,”’ and how impolitely
he spoke to the leader for having climbed it at all. Altogether this
second pitch gave us a good deal of trouble, but the top part of the
chimney, though very rotten and steep, and liable to come away in small
quantities, was climbed with comparative ease.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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