Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The pitch we had just climbed was composed of most excellent rock, but
up above, where we now were, everything was changed, and the upper
rocks, which had been rotten enough before, were now, as a result of
the heavy rain, of the worst description imaginable. Great pieces as
large as one’s head came away at once, and every step had to be most
carefully tested before we could proceed. Now was the time for us to
appreciate our leader, for a less careful man would have ‘pounded’ us
severely before we had made any progress worth mentioning. As it was,
several big pieces had to be removed, and some came whizzing past in
much too close proximity to be pleasant.
After the second pitch the chimney continues straight up and is fairly
wide for two hundred feet or so; but there is no good anchorage until
the level skyline is reached. Towards the top it narrows down to a
thin, rotten and very steep crack. By slow and very careful progress
we reached this crack, which had been climbed straight up on the first
ascent; but after Jones had tried it a few times he evidently thought
it hopeless, for he shouted down to us, ‘It won’t go to-day. The rain
has made everything too rotten. We shall have to go back.’ It was four
o’clock, raining heavily and nearly dark, and to go back meant in all
probability sleeping on the top of the second pitch, an idea which
none of us relished. So my brother climbed up to Jones and, after
consulting for a while, they decided to climb out of the crack on the
right-hand side. To do this a shoulder would have to be given, from a
small shelving ledge, to enable the leader to reach the firmer and less
steep rock up above. This was the most obvious route of ascent, but the
ledge looked very unstable and rotten, and vibrated a little on being
tested. However, Jones thought it might hold if stepped on in the right
way; so my brother climbed up on to it and Jones followed. By utilising
the side of the crack, they were able to put very little pressure on
the ledge; Jones climbed on to his companion’s shoulders, and, when he
had cleared away a few of the loose rocks, was, after an anxious moment
or two, able to draw himself up on to the skyline and disappear from
our sight. After a few seconds he gave a cheer and called to my brother
to follow him. This he had just begun to do and had left the ledge
about five feet, when I heard a dull ominous crack, and, on looking up,
saw the whole thing coming down. There was no time to do anything but
squeeze into the chimney and warn my father. I succeeded in getting
far enough inside to escape serious damage, but the heel of my left
boot, which projected a little, was torn entirely away. My father’s
escape was more marvellous, for it seemed that nothing could save him;
but on looking down I saw the great rock strike a projecting piece of
the chimney only a few inches above his head, and spread out like a
fan into a thousand splinters which shot far out into the air, falling
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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