Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
WEST WALL CLIMB, DEEP GHYLL.--For climbers of Deep Ghyll who
ascend the second pitch by the right-hand exit, this new route is
probably the best way out of the Ghyll. After thus passing the second
pitch, the West Wall Climb starts from a point about twenty-six yards
below the entrance to the Great Chimney. By climbing over two small
ledges and up a conspicuous thirty-feet chimney, a broad ledge is
reached, where further direct progress is not advisable.
The best way lies around a corner to the right and up a series of
easy ledges, working gradually back again to above the commencement
of the climb. About half-way up ‘The Wall’ an undercut pinnacle is
reached and ascended on the left before a lodgment can be effected on
its outside edge, and some enjoyable work follows until a spacious
ledge on the right can be utilised. When Messrs. J. W. Robinson, J. H.
Doncaster, and H. W. Blunt first made the ascent, in the September of
1898, this portion of the climb was considered difficult, and it is
probably the only part where special care is necessary. Above this the
climbing can be varied considerably, but the direct ascent of a rock
ridge, straight ahead, is to be recommended. The course throughout is
well within the powers of most climbing parties, and the magnificent
views of Scawfell Pinnacle and Deep Ghyll add additional interest to
the ascent.
We are indebted to two friends for the notes on the following
climbs:--To Mr. G. T. Glover for those on the Ling Chimney, and to Mr.
W. R. Reade for those on the West Jordan Gully.
THE LING CHIMNEY, EAGLE’S NEST ARÊTE.--In the first edition
of his book Mr. O. G. Jones mentions that there are two chimneys on
the left-hand side of the Eagle’s Nest Arête, ‘the right of these
is shallow and open ... whether it can be climbed or not I have
never ascertained.’ On October 15th, 1899, Messrs. W. N. Ling, C.
E. Martineau and G. T. Glover made the first recorded ascent of it,
after a preliminary exploration from above. From the top of the small
grass gully which commences the _arête_ climb, one traverses about ten
feet across some rock to the left, being then in a direct line below
the final chimney. Going straight upwards, by steep rock steps, an
upright slab is swarmed up with the hands and feet on each side, until
a platform is reached, on which the second man can join the leader.
About fifteen feet above this is another platform at the foot of a
narrow chimney which needs careful climbing for about ten feet, until a
foothold can be utilised on the sharp edge of the left wall.
From here some stiff pulls on the arms land one out either on a broad
ledge above the easy gully route, or up a continuation of the chimney
to the right-hand side of the narrow pinnacle at the finish of the true
_arête_ climb. The ascent, as a whole, requires more care than the
gully route.
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