Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
WALKER’S GULLY.--Since it almost seems customary nowadays
to become benighted in this magnificent gorge, a few notes may be
given as to altered conditions. Those who pay their first visit to
this exceptionally severe course would be well advised to avoid the
‘watery’ first pitch on the left. If abnormally dry it may be overcome
direct, but this probably involves more severe climbing than anything
encountered in the higher main bed of the gully. The best course for
those who wish to add this initial pitch to their laurels is to start
up the buttress a few feet to the right of its foot. About 30 feet
higher a grass ledge is reached, where a short traverse can be made to
the left, and then the way lies up a narrow sloping scoop for nearly 25
feet. At the top of this the holds are rather deficient, but it is soon
possible to step across on to the upper part of the big chimney and
thence struggle up directly over the capstone.
The great cave below the mass of tumbled boulders in the upper part of
the gully has recently given serious pause to at least two parties of
experts. The hole at the back of the cave is blocked by fallen rocks,
and considerable difficulty has been encountered in making the upward
way on the exposed outside edge of the jammed boulders. It may be
mentioned that the blocking of this hole is probably only temporary; it
has occurred before, and been removed by wary experts. During the first
ascent the hole required considerable enlargement.
The fact that the final obstacle can be overcome by first climbing
up the right wall until the left wall can be reached to assume a
backing-up attitude would seem to be unknown to many parties. Even
a moderately short man can utilise this method. Failure to realize
this has resulted in more than one party spending a night in the damp
recesses of the gully. Yet they would probably find the magnificent
scenery ample reward for the discomfort involved. The great black walls
of the gorge loom gloomily on either hand. To watch the moon’s rays
casting a pervasive gleam athwart the distant peaks is indescribably
beautiful. But this is only ‘moonshine,’ especially to those who have
watched and waited.
THE SHAMROCK.--The climber who emerges safely from Walker’s
Gully may be glad to know that there is a pleasant scramble thence
to the lower peak of the Shamrock. This acts as a welcome muscular
sedative after the previously severe exercise in the gully. Just to
the left of the top of the great upper pitch a crack will be noticed
slanting to the left up the wall of the Shamrock. This yields about 30
feet of ascent, and then, turning to the right, the climber mounts,
first on clean rocks, and later over grass-crowned ledges, to the
summit. After a short descent across the head of the Shamrock Gully, it
is possible to mount the opposite wall and emerge quite close to the
cairns which mark the downward path by the Shamrock Traverse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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