Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
THE PISGAH BUTTRESS.--In the second chapter mention was made
of the small pinnacle of Pisgah that flanked the Professor’s Chimney.
Viewing the crags from Mickledore, it will be seen that this pinnacle
is the culminating point of the ridge between Moss Ghyll and Steep
Ghyll. It is convenient to introduce here a brief account of the first
ascent of this ridge directly from the ‘Tennis Court.’ Messrs. G.
and A. Abraham had repeatedly assured me that their inspection from
neighbouring points of view had been favourable, but it was not until
April 22, 1898, when ascending Scawfell Pinnacle by the Low Man, that
I examined the Pisgah ridge with the object of attacking it. The same
afternoon these two friends awaited my arrival on the ‘Tennis Court.’
I came along the Mickledore towards the Pulpit Rock to enjoy a rest
and the society of a party of friends, but was disappointed of both
by a call from the Ledge. In ten minutes from the Mickledore I joined
them, and while recovering breath, was interested to hear of their
attempts to reach the Ledge by other ways than Moss Ghyll. Then,
disposing the rope properly, we went to the extreme right corner and
started the real business. I had a vertical crack about twelve feet
high to surmount. It led to a small platform similar to the one from
which we began our climb, and presented the usual difficulties--no hand
or foothold. A shoulder was given me, then probably a head, then a
steadying hand for my struggling feet, the left arm being thrust well
into the crack and the right doing as best it could on the wall, until
it could reach the grassy edge of the platform above. Once on this the
prospect was pleasing, and we dubbed the spot a ‘Fives Court.’ Thence
a steep chimney rose directly towards the ridge. I mounted some twenty
feet and debated whether the others might safely come up and help.
There seemed to be a fair chance of entering an overhanging chimney
away up to my left, or of following the direct route to the ridge. The
first course attracted me a yard or two along a narrow ledge, until the
way was barred by an immense poised block. It trembled as I touched
the horrible thing; so did my friends down below, and they besought
me to play the straight game, and aim for the arête instead of aiming
at them. They were perfectly just in their choice, and it is as well
that their advice was followed, for we should have had a terrible time
working the overhanging chimney. Ten or fifteen feet of rather careful
scrambling brought me to the edge of the buttress, at a point where I
could descend a little on the Steep Ghyll side and belay the others
with absolute security while they mounted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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