Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
The point we had reached was on a level with the top of the Slingsby’s
Chimney on the Pinnacle. Another party of climbers were operating over
there, and gave us some useful information as to the work we had above
us. Our rock was not altogether firm and reliable, so that the next bit
of vertical ridge in front was discarded in favour of a slight détour
on the left face. Belayed as he was by the others, the leader ran very
little risk, and employing a succession of moderately firm, tufted
ledges, he dragged himself steadily up for another twenty feet before
his companions quitted their belay and joined him. Then we unroped
and walked up the remaining hundred feet with no trouble whatever,
astonished to find that our difficulties had been so few and so rapidly
overcome. In an hour from the ‘Tennis Court’ we were swinging down the
Broad Stand ledges.
COLLIER’S CLIMB.--For many years it was currently supposed
that any attempt to scale the precipice between the North Climb at
Mickledore and Steep Ghyll round by the Pinnacle, ranked the daring
enthusiast as one _quem Deus vult perdere_, and, moreover, that the
gods would not give him the chance to finish his undertaking. But
with the advent of a greater number of experienced climbers, coming
to Wastdale with recollections of the stupendous rocks in the Swiss
Alps or the Austrian Dolomites, a reaction gradually set in. To many
nothing seemed impossible with a party of three and an Alpine rope.
But a line must be drawn somewhere to separate the possible from the
impossible, and some try to draw it by their own experience. These
constitute what is called the ultra-gymnastic school of climbing. Its
members are generally young and irresponsible. With years will come
a desire to depart this life in one piece, after the common joys are
realized that life is able to offer. The quick-burning fever for wild
adventure dies away with the approach of workable theories of life.
Whatever the mental phenomenon may be, I am convinced that the physical
is vestigial--a trace of our former savagery, a suggestion of the
lively past, when the struggle for existence involved more muscle than
mind.
Wherefore let live the ultra-gymnasts, if indeed they can pass through
their March-madness without coming to grief; nor should we attempt to
inoculate them with some harmless sport, for the result is to render
the sport dangerous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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