Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
So we may well think, and it is a great pity that the icy conditions
of the rock prevented their direct ascent into Slingsby’s chimney. The
gully they entered and almost completely ascended, is marked plainly in
the general view of the Scawfell Crags from the Pulpit, and at first
sight appears to run up continuously to Slingsby’s chimney. Actually,
however, it finishes on the side of the nose or pinnacle of rock a few
feet lower down, and I believe this pinnacle could be ascended from
it by either side. What this earlier party found impossible in the
Winter of 1887, Mr. G. T. Walker and I in April, 1898, favoured by the
best of conditions, were just able to overcome. We had spent a long
and exciting day in the neighbourhood, and were descending Slingsby’s
chimney late in the afternoon, when we were suddenly struck with the
idea of descending the fissure behind the nose and prospecting the face
of rock between it and Deep Ghyll. A rough inspection of the first
fifty feet below us proving satisfactory, we hastened down Steep Ghyll
and traversed across to the top of the first pitch in Deep Ghyll. In
spite of the late hour I could not refrain from a trial trip on the
edge of the great Low Man buttress. At the point where the earlier
party found the direct ascent barred by smooth ice on the wall, and
decided to traverse off to the gully on the left, we had a council
of war. It resulted in my throwing down my boots to Walker, and then
crawling up fifty feet of, perhaps, the steepest and smoothest slabs
to which I have ever trusted myself. This brought me to a tiny corner
where I essayed to haul in the rope attached to my companion. But he
also had to remove his boots and traverse to a point vertically below
me before he could follow up in safety. We were now some distance to
the left of the edge of Deep Ghyll, and straight up above us we could
distinguish the crack where our new route was to terminate. Getting
Walker to lodge firmly in a notch somewhat larger than mine, six feet
away on the Steep Ghyll side, I went off again up another forty feet
of smooth rock, aided by a zig-zagging crack an inch or so in width,
that supplied sufficient lodgment for the toes, and a moderate grip
for the finger-tips. After both had arrived thus far, we were able,
with extreme care, to reach the side wall of the nose itself, and at
a point, perhaps, fifty feet from its crest we turned round its main
outside buttress and found ourselves in a spacious chamber with a flat
floor and a considerable roof, the first and only genuine resting-place
worthy the name that we found along our route. We could look straight
down Hopkinson’s gully, and would gladly have descended into it
and ‘passed the time of day’ with a little speculative scrambling
thereabouts. But darkness was coming on apace, and we had yet a most
awkward corner to negotiate before finishing our appointed business.
Standing on Walker’s shoulders I screwed myself out at the right-hand
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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