Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Our work was easy at the outset. The gully was narrow and steep, but
the snow was good, and small ledges on either side were utilized
whenever the little icicle-clad pitches were too slippery for direct
attack. Where the gully widened a little we could see the first
serious obstacle in front of us--a vertical wall with a ragged
ice-curtain flung over it in a most artistic way. It would perhaps
have been possible to cut directly upwards, but the crowd of eager
climbers behind could not be expected to fight against frostbite for
an hour or so while the leader amused himself, and the obvious method
of circumventing the difficulty had its own merits. The right wall
slightly overhung; close below was a glazed rib of rock leading up at
an easy angle to the top of the pitch.
[Illustration:
PLATE III.
THE GREAT END GULLIES (p. 90).
The height of BB is about 450 feet.
A Holmes’s (or Brigg’s) Cave Pitch.
B South-east Gully.
C The Central Gully.
D Cust’s Gully.
E Head of Skew Ghyll.
F Sprinkling Tarn.
c Left Branch of the Central Gully.
d Difficult Chimney.]
Steadying myself against the wall, I started cutting slight steps up
the thin ice on the rock, keeping as near to the corner as possible.
Now and again the foothold felt insecure, but for the most part the
ascent was safe, with slight probability of a slip into the snow below.
The second man followed close up, and steadied my feet occasionally
with an ice-axe. Then came a more gentle snow-slope, up which we could
kick steps without effort; and while the second party were busy with
the difficulties that we had just overcome, we reached the second pitch
and hastened to leave it behind us. This was rather a harder task than
we had yet undertaken. The gully was more open and its ice covering
less extensive, but the pitch was higher and involved our climbing up
to the centre from the right-hand wall, so as to reach the base of
the big boulder that crowns the pitch. All this would have been easy
with the rocks clear and dry, but we had to make our footholds on the
flimsiest rags of ice, and the traverse to the middle demanded some
long stepping with scarcely a hand to steady. On reaching the boulder I
was compelled to crawl on all-fours round its front to the slope on the
left-hand side of the gully, and then by cutting a dozen steps or so in
the hard snow found myself in the wide part of the gully at the foot of
the great divide. The others of my party followed on rapidly, and we
shouted adieu to our companions beneath.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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