Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
I have mentioned that the middle route up the Central Gully leads by
easy stages to the upper portion of the right-hand branch. Some three
years ago a strong party effected an ascent of the chimney that points
directly up to the top of the cliff from the high ledge between the two
routes. We found the main difficulty was in traversing over an open
slab on the right of the foot of the chimney. The slab was split by a
narrow fissure, but the handholds were slight and rather insecure. To
have trusted to one alone would have been dangerous, and I recall with
amusement the spread-eagle attitude of the leader as he endeavoured to
distribute his weight equally on four rickety points of support. The
position was good enough in itself, but to move involved a dangerous
increase in the stress on one of the supports. Fortunately the second
on the rope was able to offer an axe-head as additional security, and
the passage to the left was effected in safety. The chimney was narrow
and its sides smooth, but with the exception of a loose stone near the
finish, which rattled down and tended to disturb our wedging, nothing
seriously interfered with our advance.
But there was one amongst us who, in expectation of falling stones,
had thrust his head and shoulders into the little cave at the foot of
the chimney. When the leader shouted to him he did not hear, and the
accompanying pull on the rope resulted in the hitching of his shoulders
firmly in the cleft and the elevation of his legs only. The previous
evening we had been having a heated discussion as to the futility of
naming the sides of a gully or cave after the manner of the banks of a
river--_i.e._ of calling the ‘true’ right side of a gully its left and
_vice-versâ_. Professor M., who was with us now, had been a listener to
the discussion. Looking down from the top of the chimney and observing
the unusual method of our friend’s ascent, he called out, ‘It’s all
right, Jones, he is coming up well enough--the “true up.”’
SOUTH-EAST GULLY.--This in summer time can often be accomplished
in half an hour if the climbers are few and in a hurry. Before
December, 1896, I had not made a winter ascent; moreover, I had
forgotten much of the detail. Thinking of climbing notes, I persuaded a
small Christmas party to join me in exploring the gully under these new
conditions.
We were only a band of three ultimately, though at Kern Knotts, which
we visited _en route_, our number was considerably larger. The other
two were both experienced Alpine climbers, one a very tall man, the
other very short. I was anxious to determine the advantages and
disadvantages of size and weight, and to that end took the lead myself
and placed the tall man second on the rope. We had but little wind, and
the temperature was slightly above freezing-point.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account