Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
Making slowly up this wall to a snowy ledge at the top level of the
pitch, I called on the others to follow, and then worked back into
the gully. Here we found ourselves facing the ‘divide,’ a high and
narrow rib of rock that cut down into the gully and gave us a choice
of routes. Our way lay up to the right, which a distant view from
Sprinkling Tarn had shown us to be really the main line. The other
branch ends somewhat abruptly out on the face, and involves a traverse
into the main again. A few yards further up, and a very imposing pitch
rose before us. It was in three portions, the gap between the second
and the third blocked by a huge stone that bridged the gully. As on
the lower fall, so here the water kept us off the centre-line of the
ravine, and drove us to seek diversion on the right. On the first part
we had the difficulty of snow and wet ice. Without comment I noticed
the little one carefully wipe out a handhold with his handkerchief
when it was his turn to mount. By the same manœuvre he had some
three years before shown me how to scramble up a small boulder in the
Engelberg valley that I was forced to admit I could not climb. It was
interesting to observe how little space he needed for his fingers. On a
wall with diminutive ledges that might easily pass unnoticed, he could
show us all what ‘walking up’ a face of rock really meant, though his
short reach naturally handicapped him now and again very seriously. I
believe a short man generally does best on rocks. His hands are as a
rule stronger in proportion to his weight. The long climber can reach
further but is often unable to utilize the distant grip to which he has
stretched, if it is small or badly rounded. Moreover, he often finds
himself in the attitude of a looping caterpillar, a pose that demands a
firmer handgrip and that rapidly exhausts the muscles.
We all reached the first ledge safely. Then came the passage of the
bridge. If we passed under it we should get terribly wet and cold,
though there would be no particular difficulty in getting through to
the final chimney. Every inch of the boulder was glazed, and it offered
very few excrescences to hang upon. But it had the making of an edge
at its crest, and I gradually worked up the outside till I could reach
this and pull up. There is one advantage of a glaze--possibly its only
one--it offers no friction to one’s body in an arm-pull.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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