Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third EditionJones, Owen Glynne
General
Rock-climbing in the English Lake District: Third Edition
Jones, Owen Glynne
Lake District (England) -- Description and travel; Mountaineering; Rock climbing -- England -- Lake District
CUST’S GULLY.--The climbing in this is of the slightest
character in summer time, there being but one short pitch beneath the
natural arch, and very little in that. But with hard snow about there
is scarcely a pleasanter way of playing at Alpine climbing above the
snow-line than by taking Great End viâ Skew Ghyll and Cust’s Gully.
The snow slope will alter in inclination from about 30° at the bottom
to 70° at the top. If the pitch is but thinly covered, there is
the fun of tackling a pitfall, and of bringing to bear on the safe
crossing all the science that glacier crevasses may have taught us in
Switzerland. Nor let any think that it is all make-believe and that
of difficulty there is none. I have had grand times in Cust’s Gully,
where we were actually tired out with the labour of cutting steps.
The snow when fresh is soft and yielding. Give it a week or two to
settle down, and it will bind together so as to offer firm support
on scraped footholds. But let cold rain fall on hard snow and the
temperature then fall below freezing-point, the surface will become icy
and every step will require careful making. Then should the picturesque
attitudes of step-cutting depicted in Badminton be imitated in all
seriousness, and the axe wielded with the scientific swing. It has
happened more than once that a bad axe has proved its worthlessness
when tested on the Cumbrian fells in a winter expedition--a much less
dangerous discovery than if it were taken new to the Alps and there
found wanting. The difficulty in the latter case is that our axes are
so rarely used for hard work, if we are led up the great peaks by
competent guides. They delight in removing every obstacle in our way,
and it may be that long usage of the axe has really been but a test of
the _bâton_, not at all of the pick. Then comes a time when the leading
weapon is broken, or carelessly dropped, or still more carelessly
pitched up to a ledge of only suppositious safety. Do not imagine that
these things never happen, for each has been within my own experience
during the last three years; and woe to the party if the untested axe
is a weakling when emergency calls on it!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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