As this feast always falls in spring, the serenity of the atmosphere, the
perfumed air of Andalusia, the innumerable flowers thrown along the line
of the procession, the balconies splendidly adorned, and full of
beautiful women dressed in the highest state of luxury, the charms of
music, and the brilliant display of uniforms, embroidered vestments, and
other gay appearances which catch the eye of the spectator on every side,
form a spectacle eminently picturesque and romantic, which seldom fails
to make a lively impression on the exalted imaginations of the
inhabitants of those regions. On these occasions, more particularly, may
be observed the dexterity with which the Roman Catholic clergy avail
themselves of every opportunity of profiting by human weakness, and of
that imperium which the senses exercise over the mind, to augment the
number of their proselytes and consolidate their power over the
conscience.
In Madrid the parts of the streets through which the procession is to
pass is shaded by awnings, and the pavement is sprinkled with sand. The
ceremony over, all belonging to the elegant and fashionable class of
society go at once to the _Calle de Carretas_, which is one of the
streets in the line of the procession, and one which, on this occasion,
may certainly vie with the far-famed Long-champs of Paris; for there the
fair rulers of fashion display those tasteful changes in their personal
attire which are to be in vogue during the remainder of the spring.
The processions of Holy Week are of a character entirely different from
those of Corpus Christi. In the latter all is animation and joy, singing
and triumph; but in the former every thing is sadness, seriousness, and
grief. All the sculptured figures, called _pasos_, which are of the
natural size and colour, and are carried about in those doleful
processions, represent the principal scenes of our Saviour’s
passion,—such as his prayer in the garden, the treachery of Judas, the
judgment of Pilate, and the crucifixion. In Seville, the processions of
Holy Week are of an extent and character renowned all over Christendom.
There they bring out one of these _pasos_, in which are seen the twelve
apostles seated at table, with the slight anachronism that their chairs
are of the most elegant description that can be manufactured in London or
Paris. In the processions we are now describing, besides all those
persons we have named as taking a part in that of Corpus Christi, are
innumerable _penitentes_, who are men in masks, dressed in tunics of a
white, black, or brown colour, their heads covered with an enormous cone,
of the same colour and form used by the magicians or astrologers
represented in English theatres. In Granada those tunics, which are
called _chias_, are of black velvet, embroidered with gold or silver, and
having a train of six or eight yards in length. The diversity of colour
denotes the brotherhood to which the penitent belongs; and these
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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