Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
On a Sunday night at nine o'clock, I quitted the city, and on Tuesday
morning I had my hair trimmed by a barber of Seville. The journey, like
most long railway journeys, is one of infinite weariness to the flesh.
The first-class carriages are roomy and well-padded, so that short
travelling, except for invalids, is comfortable enough. The correo, or
mail train--that which I took--leaves but once in twenty-four hours,
and, in consequence of carrying the mails, has to stop at every station,
so that its progress is slow, albeit the quickest to be had for money.
There were nine sociable young Spaniards in the compartment with me. The
gauge of the road is wide, admitting of five broad seats at each side,
and the motion of the train is easy and nurses to sleep, without that
violent rocking which one sometimes experiences while rattling
northwards from London in the Flying Scotchman. But the backs of the
seats are stiff and straight as a Prussian drill-sergeant, and do not
nurse, but "murder sleep," as I speedily found to my sorrow. However,
they do nurse a crick in the neck. I was woke out of a wayward doze just
as I was about to undergo the punishment of death by the garrote. I had
been dreaming a fearsome dream. In a weak moment I had accepted the
crown of Spain. I had granted my subjects every conceivable privilege,
pandered to all their crazes, gone so far as to give them a bull-fight
every day in the week and two on Sundays and festivals, paying all
expenses out of my own royal pockets. But they were not to be satisfied,
unless I would go into the bull-ring myself. That was the straw that
breaks the camel's back. I flatly refused. They rebelled, kicked me off
the throne, led me in a felon's yellow coat on a wretched donkey to the
place of execution, and planted me in the fatal chair. Most poignant
humiliation yet, all the crowned heads of Europe, led by the Czar of
Russia, were invited to the spectacle and joined in a howling chorus of
"Serve him right." I looked my last around, and woke up with a toss of
my noddle against the back of the seat. We were at Alcázar. A
fellow-traveller kindly offered to let me lay my head between his legs
if I would give him my carpet-bag for a pillow. There is nothing like
reciprocal accommodation on a journey. I agreed, the train started
again, and I lost myself in the land of Nod. This time I was following
the campaign against the Carlists. Suddenly I was roused by a cry--
"Santa Cruz!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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