Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
The explanation is simple. I had nothing to conceal. You cannot squeeze
aqua tofana out of a stone. I was suspected, I take it now, because, in
the exercise of my vocation, I had been thrown into the society of
Communists, Nihilists, Fenians, and Carbonari. Had I confined myself to
card-sharpers, prize-fighters, copper captains, hypocrites, libertines,
and ladies of the Loosened Cincture, all would have been well. And yet,
'fore Heaven, I can assure the Powers, great and small, I have never
meditated wrong to a State or a potentate, never harboured an unkind
thought for a dog, and never joined a secret society but the Order of
Antediluvian Buffaloes, and they expelled me from the lodge for
unbuffalo-like behaviour.
If I was sure that Saragossa butcher was a spy, I would not put prussic
acid in his chocolate, but I almost think I would sprinkle cowhage
between his sheets.
CHAPTER XIV.
Delectable Seville--Don Juan Scapegrace--The Women in Black--In the
Triana Suburb--The City of the Seven Sleepers--Guide-Book
Boredom--Romance and Reality--The Prosaic Manchester Man--King
Ferdinand Puzzling the Judges--Mortification by Proxy--Some Notable
Treasures--Papers and Politics--The Porcelain Factory--"The Lazy
Andalusiennes"--About Cigars--The Gipsy Dance.
There are but three spots in the world of which I had formed mental
pictures from my reading, that rose to the level of anticipation when I
came to visit them. Venice was one of these, Naples another, and
Seville, delectable Seville, the third. There is a Spanish proverb which
declares, "Who hath not seen Seville hath not seen a marvel," and I am
prepared to own that who doth not believe that proverb is an unenviable
sceptic. At first sight the city is a disappointment. Glance at it from
the railway and you will have no wish to stop. But alight and remain
there a few days, and you will find it hard to drag yourself away. The
place grows upon you. Each hour reveals new charms; there is a
fascination in the very atmosphere; and in the end you will catch
yourself exclaiming that the pearl of Andalusia is the fairest gem in
the Spanish crown--would be a priceless ornament to any crown.
The setting of the jewel is not worthy of it--a great plain covered with
greyish grass; clumps of tall, brown-blossomed agave; a sky metallic in
its lustre, blazing and intense; a dim streak of azure on the horizon
indicating the far sierra, and, creeping lazily through the flat, a
dull, yellow river. But the city itself! Verily, it is a marvel--a
grotto of serene mysteries in a granary of plenty, the true city to
cultivate the gay science and savour the delicate relishes of bliss.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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