Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)O'Shea, John Augustus
History
Romantic Spain: A Record of Personal Experiences (Vol. I)
O'Shea, John Augustus
Spain -- Description and travel
famous picture is the "Descent from the Cross" of Campana. This was
painted in 1548, and was so natural that Murillo was never weary of
resting in rapt contemplation before it, and on his death-bed asked to
be buried at its feet in the church of Santa Cruz. He had his wish. But
the dogs of war came panting that way. Soult entered Seville, pulled
down the church, desecrated the master's grave, and stole all of his
canvas he could lay his sacrilegious paws upon to grace the Louvre. The
Spaniards do not love the French, nor is it astonishing.
Among the delights of Seville one of the chief must not fail to be
enumerated--no shrieking newsboys shove latest editions into the face of
the lounger. This is not a reading people; for a woman to know how to
read was accounted immoral so late as the beginning of this century.
There are some papers at Seville, nevertheless; among others, _El
Oriente_, devoted to Carlism, and _La Legitimidad_, which advocated the
interests of the ex-Queen Isabella's son and heir; but they have little
to say. In the lack of suicides, stabs in the dark, and
pronunciamientos, they are driven to fill up their space with extracts
from the almanac and lists of letters thrown into the Post Office
without prepayment. Some countryman must have caught the local disease,
for in one list given in _La Legitimidad_ it was notified that two
envelopes had been indolently committed to the box without stamps, one
addressed to "Miss Mary, Hyde Park," and the other to "Monsieur" (an
evident misprint for "Mister") "Francis O'Mahony, Shankerhill."
It may be a surprise to some that Carlism had its adherents, but
wherever the Church is powerful there Carlism exists, and as the Church
is particularly powerful amongst the weaker sex, the Spanish women are
almost universally Carlists. Many a ferocious Intransigente, who spouts
fire and brimstone, and death to kings and priests in the clubs, has to
sing very small when he comes home, for the Señora dotes on Don Carlos
and works slippers for the father confessor. In Seville I should say the
Intransigente element is feeble; it is strongest, perhaps, in the
municipality (which, by the way, issued an edict secularizing the
cemetery of San Fernando), because this party of action is always on the
watch and pushes itself into office; but the immense majority of the
business folk are monarchical, only they wish to have the Prince of the
Asturias, not Don Carlos, for their monarch, and all the gentlefolk,
without exception, are anti-Republican. I had proof of this at the
theatre, where "La Marsellesa," a comedy intended to glorify the advent
of the Republic, was played. The speeches in favour of Federalism very
often fell flat, and occasionally were hissed, while the satirical hits
at "social liquidation" and the like were uncommonly relished.
I have dwelt on indolent Seville. Surely there must be some industries
pursued in this metropolis of the _dolce far niente_. They are not many.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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