Round the world in any number of daysBaring, Maurice
General
Round the world in any number of days
Baring, Maurice
Voyages around the world
In thinking of the South Sea Islands, and of tropical islands in
general, if you have never seen them, one may not realise that the
general appearance of them must necessarily be green, since they
are entirely covered with vegetation. One imagines a few palm-trees
sticking up out of the sea, instead of a range of mountains covered
with trees. As you first catch sight of Roratonga, you realise what
New Zealand must have been like when it was covered with bush, only,
of course, the climate of Roratonga is far milder and far warmer. The
moment the steamer reaches Roratonga a great quantity of natives set
out in boats from the shore and swarm on board. They are not black;
they are not copper-coloured; they are a sort of dull almond colour,
with very black hair and very dark brown eyes. They wear large straw
hats; some of them have flowers in their hair and behind their ears.
[Illustration: NATIVES SWARMING ON BOARD]
As soon as you reach the shore the aspect of the island, which you
might think disappointing at a distance, changes entirely. You are
caught in a sort of warm embrace of aromatic deliciousness. Hibiscus
bushes, with great scarlet blossoms, surround you on every side; cocoa
palms, and all vegetation which you expect to see in a tropical island,
are there before your eyes. But you will say, “If it is just the same
as any other tropical island, what is the use of describing it--if
it is merely what one sees in the East? You have already spoken of
Ceylon.” Well, Roratonga and the islands of the South Seas are not in
the least like Ceylon, and they are not in the least like anything in
the Near or Far East. They have a peculiar charm which is completely
individual, and totally unlike anything else. The sights and the people
of these Southern places are utterly unlike the sights and people
you see in the East--in Ceylon, for instance. There is nothing here
of that hard, metallic element which you get in the East; nothing of
that inscrutable mystery, that shadow of cruelty, which you feel in
the Orient. The people are like the climate--soft and gentle; and
they talk in musical tones, like the twittering of birds; and their
speech is careless as the laughing talk of children. They reminded me
of that race of people whom H. G. Wells describes in his book “The
Time Machine,” that same people whom he imagines as living aboveground
in the far, far distant future, when the industrial population of
the world had grown into a sort of human flesh-eating lemur, which
could only live underground and could only see in the dark. Mr. Wells
represents the other and the civilized half of the population as
having progressed or degenerated, whichever you like, into a race of
childlike, amiable, and playful little people, who live on fruit
in tumble-down houses, and who are as careless and irresponsible as
butterflies. The people of Roratonga reminded me of this fancy of Mr.
Wells’s.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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