Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of EnglandL'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
History
Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of England
L'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
Winchester (England) -- Description and travel
A pleasant walk leads from the bridge along the bank of the river
to Twyford--three miles distant--but I started in that direction
through Southgate Street, which is part of the Southampton Road. After
passing St. Cross and proceeding on for about a half-mile, I came to
a bifurcation and a signpost, and took the lower road to the left,
walking by grassy banks golden with fleabane. I crossed the Itchen,
and soon a branch of that river--fringed with a line of wild foliage,
purple willow-herb and hemp agrimony. Then I reached Twyford Lodge, the
residence of Colonel Bates, and farther on took the right-hand turning
to the church. It is modern except the window, but stands on a ring
of prehistoric monoliths, preserving the old sanctity of the place.
The graveyard is adorned with some magnificent coniferæ, specimens
of the Wellingtonia, deodara, picea pinsapo, cypress, and cedar; but
the pride of the whole is an immense yew-tree which rises in the
centre in ancient majesty. It is of great girth, and withal as sound
as a bell, and it is cut into the form of one--or, I might say, of
Robinson Crusoe’s umbrella. Go beneath it and gaze up into its maze of
branches--a wondrous sight!
On leaving this shrubbery I turned round to the left, and, had I
desired, I could have walked through “silken grass,” across a couple
of fields, to the railway station, passing by the woods round Shawford
Park (Sir Charles Frederick’s), and over the river, which is here
divided into three parts.[105] But I sat down to rest upon a seat
placed by some fairy godmother at the first bridge, and looked down
into the Itchen, where the long green foliage was waving like the hair
of water nymphs. Does not Tennyson speak of our life swaying “like
those long mosses in the stream”? I seemed to be looking down into a
clear agate and the liquid murmur was only broken at intervals by the
jumping of a trout.
Before me lay two elephantine blocks of stone, brought by some of our
unknown predecessors. I amused myself with conjuring up pictures of the
past, and thinking that here--
“Sage beneath the spreading oak,
Sat the Druid hoary chief.”
and while I fancied I could still hear his low chanting, my mind
wandered off to reflect that this neighbourhood is sacred to a real
modern “druid.” There was a celebrated school at Twyford and among its
pupils was Pope. His satiric talent brought, as usual, disgrace, for he
was sent away for writing a squib on the master, who had become a Roman
Catholic.
Returning to the church, I regained the high road, and immediately on
my right saw a large red-brick house, which had an air of old-fashioned
importance. I was anxious to find Shipley House, where Franklin, as a
guest of Bishop Shipley, wrote his life. I could find no one to inquire
from, but soon a labouring man came along, and I asked him if this was
Shipley House.
“No, sir,” he replied, “this is Twyford House. Shipley House is nearly
a mile further on.”
I was surprised to hear this.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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