Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of EnglandL'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
History
Royal Winchester: Wanderings in and about the Ancient Capital of England
L'Estrange, A. G. K. (Alfred Guy Kingan)
Winchester (England) -- Description and travel
Passing westward to the north presbytery aisle we find an old-fashioned
dumpy ship carved over the grave of Harthacnut.[85] Hard by lies the
heart of Ethelmar, the half-brother of Henry III. When the bishop,
after landing at Dover, came to Winchester, the King, who was much at
this city, went out to meet him with a grand procession. Ethelmar seems
to have been an avaricious young man;[86] he was scarcely elected when
he had a conflict with the Archbishop of Canterbury, and also with the
monks of St. Swithun. He deposed the prior here because he refused
to give an account of some property, and the lawsuit between him and
the monks was so serious that they mortgaged the church of Winchester
for 7,000 marks--about £5,000. Afterwards Ethelmar paid off a part of
this, and the monks gave him the Isle of Portland and other property as
compensation. When the Barons held a parliament here in 1258, Ethelmar
was obliged to fly from the country. He died in Paris when only
thirty-four, and sent over his heart, which perhaps the monks did not
much appreciate. But it proved a “golden heart” to them in producing
miracles. When the steps of the altar were being lowered it was found
beneath them in a golden cup by a workman, who kept the cup and placed
the heart in this north aisle.
We now dive down into the crypt, and find it of grand dimensions,
propped with pillars such as we have just seen a specimen of in
Gardiner’s Chantry. There is still a controversy as to whether this is
Saxon or Norman work. It seems strange that Walkelin should have made
no use of the extensive excavations and foundations of the previous
building, but history asserts that the old high altar remained after
the new Cathedral was finished, and the best authority considers that
this edifice was entirely new. The well in the crypt is thought to
have existed previously, as it is not symmetrically placed with regard
to the pillars. There is still water in it, I was told. Until lately
the floor was much obstructed by earth--sixteen loads have been lately
removed. When James Ellis paid his visit about the middle of the last
century, he found “at the end of the crypt a chapel, but the extent
of it I could not examine, as it was locked up and used as a wine
vault.”[87]
[Sidenote: Frescoes.]
In the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, just under the organ, there are
some fine frescoes of the thirteenth century in fair preservation, and
in the north transept, especially in the north-east corner, there are
traces of colour and patterns, and a large but somewhat faint fresco
apparently representing some monarch. On the ancient rood screen there
were carved and painted figures, and the spires of the stalls were gilt
until the last century.
As we passed down the Cathedral the sun was setting, and the effect of
the rays falling through the vast west window was magnificent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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