Ruins of Ancient Cities (Vol. 1 of 2): With General and Particular Accounts of Their Rise, Fall, and Present ConditionBucke, Charles
History
Ruins of Ancient Cities (Vol. 1 of 2): With General and Particular Accounts of Their Rise, Fall, and Present Condition
Bucke, Charles
Cities and towns, Ancient
We must now give place to what Mons. de La Martine says, in regard to
the Bishop of Balbec:--"We proceeded very little farther that day. The
road diverged from these ruins, and led us to others. We passed over
some vaults, and arrived at a small house. This was the palace of the
Bishop of Balbec, who, clothed in his violet-coloured pelisse, and
attended by some Arab peasants, advanced to meet us, and conducted us to
his humble door. The poorest peasant's cottage in Burgundy, or Auvergne,
possesses greater luxury and elegance than the palace of the Bishop of
Balbec. It was an ill-built hut, without either window or door, and
through the decayed roof the rain worked its way, and dropped on the mud
floor. This was the bishop's dwelling! But at the further end of the
yard, which adjoined the house, a neat wall, newly built of blocks of
stone, and a door and window in ogives of Moorish architecture, each
ogive being constructed of finely-sculptured stones, attracted my
attention. This was the church of Balbec, the cathedral of that town, in
which other gods have had splendid temples; the chapel in which the few
Arab Christians, who live here amidst the wrecks of so many different
faiths, worship, under a purer form, the universal Creator."
The bishop was a fine old man with hair and beard of silver, a grave and
benevolent cast of features, and a sweet and well-modulated voice. He
was the perfect image of a priest of poetry or romance, says the
traveller; and his aspect, which denoted peace, resignation, and
charity, was well suited to the scene of ruins and meditation in which
he lived.
The traveller afterwards describes a delightful scene. He and his
friends were sitting by moonlight near the bishop's hut. "We were
silent. Suddenly a soft plaintive strain, a slow modulated murmur stole
through the grotesque ogives of the ruined wall of the bishop's house.
This vague and confused sound swelled higher and higher, until we
distinguished it to be a chant from the united voices of choristers; a
monotonous, melancholy strain, which rose, fell, and died away, and was
alternately revived and re-echoed. This was the evening prayer, which
the Arab bishop was chanting with his little flock, in the skeleton of
that which once had been his church; viz., a heap of ruins piled up by a
heap of idolaters. We were totally unprepared for music of this sort,
where every note was, in fact, a sentiment or a sign from the human
breast. How little did we expect it in this solitude, in the bosom of
the desert, issuing, as it were, from mute stones, strewed about by the
combined influence of earthquakes, barbarous ignorance, and time! A
hallowed emotion inspired us, and we joined with religious fervour in
the sacred hymn, until the last sighs of the pious voices had died away,
and silence again reigned over the venerable ruins."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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