Ruins of Ancient Cities (Vol. 2 of 2): With General and Particular Accounts of Their Rise, Fall, and Present ConditionBucke, Charles
History
Ruins of Ancient Cities (Vol. 2 of 2): With General and Particular Accounts of Their Rise, Fall, and Present Condition
Bucke, Charles
Cities and towns, Ancient
Since this, Captains Irby and Mangles, who accompanied Mr. Banks, have
published an account of their journey:—“Our defile brought us directly
down into the valley of Wady Mousa, whose name had become so familiar to
us. It is, at the point where we entered it, a stony but cultivated
valley, of moderate size, without much character or beauty, running in a
direction from east to west. A lesser hollow, sloping down to it from
the southward, meets it at an angle. At the upper end of the latter
valley is the village seen over stages of hanging fruit-grounds, which
are watered by a spring. * * Some hundred yards below this spring begin
the outskirts of the vast necropolis of Petra. * * As we advanced, the
natural features of the defile grew more and more imposing at every
step, and the excavations and sculpture more frequent on both sides,
till it presented at last a continued street of tombs, beyond which the
rocks, gradually approaching each other, seemed all at once to close
without any outlet. There is, however, one frightful chasm for the
passage of the stream, which furnishes, as it did anciently, the only
avenue to Petra on this side (the eastern).
“It is impossible,” continues Captain Irby, “to conceive any thing more
awful and sublime than the eastern approach to Petra. The width is not
more than just sufficient for the passage of two horsemen abreast; the
sides are in all parts perpendicular, varying from four hundred to seven
hundred feet in height; and they often overhang to such a degree, that,
without their absolutely meeting, the sky is intercepted, and completely
shut out for one hundred yards together, and there is little more light
than in a cavern.” This half subterranean passage is more than two miles
in length, and retains throughout the same extraordinary character.
“After passing the Khasne, the defile becomes contracted again for three
hundred yards, when suddenly the ruins of the city burst on the view in
their full grandeur, shut in on the opposite side by barren craggy
precipices, from which numerous ravines and valleys, like those we had
passed, branch out in all directions. (All of these ravines, however,
that were explored, were found to terminate in a wall of rock, admitting
of no passage outwards or inwards.) The sides of the mountains, covered
with an endless variety of excavated tombs and private dwellings,
presented altogether the most singular scene we ever beheld. We must
despair to give the reader an idea of the peculiar effect of the rocks,
tinted with most extraordinary hues, whose summits present us with
Nature in her most savage and romantic form; whilst their bases are
worked out in all the symmetry and regularity of art, with colonnades
and pediments, and ranges of corridors adhering to the perpendicular
surface.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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