Presently the scenery became very picturesque as we raced over the
glistening surface, which flashed like a burnished cuirass beneath
the rays of the rising sun. Now we approach a spot where seemingly
the waters from some violent blast or other had been in a state
of foam and commotion, when a stern frost transformed them into a
solid mass. Pillars and blocks of the shining and hardened element
were seen modelled into a thousand quaint and grotesque patterns.
Here a fountain, perfectly formed with Ionic and Doric columns,
was reflecting a thousand prismatic hues from the diamond-like
stalactites which had attached themselves to its crest. There a
huge obelisk, which, if of stone, might have come from ancient
Thebes, lay half buried beneath a pile of fleecy snow. Farther
on we came to what might have been a Roman temple or vast hall in
the palace of a Caesar, where many half-hidden pillars and monuments
erected their tapering summits above the piles of the _debris_. The
wind had done in that northern latitude what has been performed
by some violent pre-adamite agency in the Berber desert. Take away
the ebon blackness of the stony masses which have been there cast
forth from the bowels of the earth, and replace them on a smaller
scale by the crystal forms I have faintly attempted to describe,
and the resemblance would be striking.
Now we came to some fishing-huts, which were constructed on the
frozen river, the traffic in the finny tribe which takes place in
this part of Russia being very great, the Volga producing the sterlet
(a fish unknown in other rivers of Europe), in large quantities. I
have often eaten them, but must say I could never appreciate this
so-called delicacy. The bones are of a very glutinous nature, and
can be easily masticated, while the taste of a sterlet is something
between that of a barbel and a perch, the muddy flavour of the
former predominating. However, they are an expensive luxury, as,
to be perfection for the table, they should be taken out of the
water alive and put at once into the cooking-pot. The distance to
St. Petersburg from the Volga is considerable, and a good-sized
fish will often cost from thirty to forty roubles, and sometimes
even a great deal more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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