I shall not think it worth while to dwell on the very many churches
which adorn the northern capital, because, with few exceptions,
there is nothing in point of art which merits to be recorded. Yet
I can scarcely refrain from again referring to the fine fantasy
played by many-coloured domes against the blue sky. The forms are
beautiful, the colours decorative. The city in its sky outline
presents a succession of strange pictures, at one point the eye
might seem to range across a garden of gourds, at other positions
peer above house-tops groups which might be mistaken for turbaned
Turks; and when the sun shines vividly, and throws glittering light
on the "patens of bright gold," over these many-domed churches,
a stranger might almost fancy that above the city floated fire
balloons or bright-coloured lanterns. The large cupola of St. Isaac,
covered with copper overlaid with gold, has been said to burn on
a bright day like the sun when rising on a mountain top. I can
never forget the sight when I returned to St. Petersburg from the
most brilliant civic and military spectacle I ever witnessed, the
fete of the Empress at Tsarskoe Selo. It was still dark, but before
I reached my hotel for the short repose of a night which already
brightened into morning, every cupola on the way was awakening
into daylight; the sun, hesitating for a moment on the horizon,
announced his coming as by electric light on the golden stars which
shone on domes more blue than the grey sky of morning. In Moscow
church cupolas playa part in the city panorama still more conspicuous
than in St. Petersburg.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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