The Cathedral of St. Isaac is the most costly and pretentious of
Russian churches. The noble edifice has the advantage of a commanding
situation; not, it is true, as to elevation--for that is impossible
in a city set throughout on a dead level--but the surface area in
its wide sweeping circuit at all events contrasts strikingly with
that cribbed and cabined church-yard of St. Paul's in London, which
the Englishman may have just left behind him. Yet St. Isaac's can
scarcely venture on comparison with St. Paul's, though the style of
the two buildings is similar. The great Cathedral of St. Petersburg
has, however, the advantage of that concentration which belongs to
the Greek as distinguished from the Latin Cross, a distinction
which has always been to the disadvantage of St. Peter's in Rome.
A cross of four equal arms, with columned porticos mounted nobly
on steps at the four extremities, the whole composition crowned by
central and surrounding cupolas, is assuredly an imposing conception,
of which the French artist M. Montferrand has known how to make
the most. I may here, by way of parenthesis, remark that the two
works which do most honour to St. Petersburg, the Cathedral of
St. Isaac and the adjacent equestrian statue of Peter the Great,
are severally due not to Russian but to French artists. This is
one example among many of the foreign origin of the arts in Russia.
But at all events let it be admitted that the materials used, as
well as the ideas often brought to bear, are local or national. For
example, the grandest of all architectural conceptions, the idea
of a dome, is here glorified in true Russian or Oriental manner,
not so much by magnitude of proportion as by decorative splendour,
heightened to the utmost by a surface of burnished gold. Then the
four porticos which terminate each end of the Greek cross with
stately columns and entablatures of granite from Finland, albeit
in design mere commonplace complications, are wholly national in
the material used. I do not now stop to mention the large and bold
reliefs in bronze, which though French in design were, I believe,
cast in St. Petersburg: indeed here, as in Munich, the government
makes that liberal provision which only governments can make, for
noble but unremunerative art. The great dome is said to be sustained
by iron; indeed the science of construction brought to bear is great,
yet again it must be acknowledged that whether the material be
iron, bronze, or stone, the art, the skill, and even the commercial
capital, are not Russian but foreign, and often English. Russian
workmen, however, are employed as mechanics or machines, partly
because in copyism and mechanism Russian artisans cannot throughout
Europe be surpassed. When I got to St. Petersburg I could scarcely
believe the statement to be true that the "English Magazine" and
not any Russian factory had executed the eight stupendous malachite
pillars within the church, weighing about 34,000 pounds and costing
L2,500 sterling.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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