Yet while the organization might be English, the
operatives were Russians. The unsurpassed malachite pillars combine
in the grand altar-screen with columns of lapis-lazuli: the latter
are said to have cost per pair L12,000 sterling. I need scarcely
observe that this parade of precious metals partakes more of barbaric
magnificence than of artistic taste; indeed these columns of malachite
and lapis-lazuli, which to the eye present themselves as solid and
honest, have been built up as incrustations on hollow cast-iron
tubes. Thus hollow are the most precious arts of Russia. Justice,
however, demands that I should speak hereafter in fair appreciation
of the interiors of Russian churches, whereof the Cathedral of
St. Isaac is among the chief. Nevertheless, material rather than
mind, money rather than art, is the governing power; malachite,
lapis-lazuli, gold, and other precious substances are heaped together
profusely, yet no architect in Europe of the slightest intellectual
pretensions, would care to look a second time at the constructive
or decorative conceptions which the churches of St. Petersburg
display. St. Isaac's in fact is miraculous only in its monoliths.
I could scarcely believe my eyes when first I stood beneath the
stately porticos and looked from top to bottom of the very many
columns, seven feet in diameter and sixty feet high, all polished
granite monoliths from Finland. Already I had made the assertion
that there was nothing new in St. Petersburg when these granite
monoliths at once compelled a recantation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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