Interspersed among these barren or wooded tracts are areas containing
some of the finest corn-bearing soil in Europe, supplying from
time immemorial vast quantities of superior grain for shipment
from ports in the Baltic. It is produced on the larger estates of
two hundred to fifteen hundred acres, belonging to more than eight
thousand proprietors. The peasantry, who hold more than 240,000
farms--seldom exceeding forty acres--contribute next to nothing
towards exportation, their mode of agriculture being almost as
rude as that of the Russian peasantry, and their habits of life but
little superior, especially in the matter of drink. Towns, large
and small, occur more frequently than in Russia, and while some are
rich and industrial, others--we may say the great majority--are
poor and squalid, affording no accommodation that would render
possible the visit of even the least fastidious traveller.
Consequently we confine ourselves to Warsaw, which we take on our way
by rail to or from St. Petersburg or Moscow. Founded in the Twelfth
Century, and, during the Piast period, the seat of the appanaged
Dukes of Masovia, Warszawa, replaced Cracow as the residence of the
Polish kings and therefore as the capital of Poland, on the election
of Sigismund III. (1586). It has now a population of about 445,000,
not including the Russian garrison of 31,500 officers and men. The
left bank of the Vistula, on which Warsaw is chiefly built, is
high, and the pretty, gay, and animated city, with its stately lines
of streets, wide squares, and spacious gardens, is picturesquely
disposed along the brow of the cliff and on the plains above. Across
the broad sandy bed of the stream, here "shallow, ever-changing,
and divided as Poland itself," and which is on its way from the
Carpathians to the Baltic, is the Prague suburb, which, formerly
fortified, has never recovered from the assault by Suvoroff in
1794, when its sixteen thousand inhabitants were indiscriminately
put to the sword. A vast panorama spreads out in every direction
from this melancholy and dirty point of vantage. Opposite is the
Zamek, or castle, built by the Dukes of Masovia, and enlarged and
restored by several of the Polish kings, from Sigismund III. to
Stanislas Augustus Poniatovski. Its pictures and objects of art
are now at St. Petersburg, and Moscow, and the old royal apartments
are occupied by the Governor-General. The square in front of the
castle was the scene of the last Polish "demonstrations," in 1861,
when it was twice stained with blood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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