The Pecherskoi Monastery, or Kievo-Pecherskaya Lavra, at Kief, the
Kremlin in Moscow, and the grand monastery of Troitza, have this
in common, that the situation is commanding, the site elevated.
Also, these three venerable sanctuaries are strongholds, for though
the holy places at Kief are not on all sides fortified, yet the
approach from the old city, which is the most accessible, lies
along bastions and walls. In fact, here we have again a semblance
to the ancient idea of a church, a citadel, and a palace united,
as in an acropolis--the Church and the State being one; the arm
of the flesh sustaining the sword of the spirit,--a condition of
things which has always given to the world its noblest art. The
walk to this most ancient monastery in Russia passes pleasantly by
the side of a wood; then opens a view of the vast plain beneath,
intersected by the river Dnieper, over which is flung the great
suspension-bridge built by the English engineer, Charles Vignolles,
at the cost of L350,000. The immediate approach is lined with open
shops or stalls for the sale of sacred pictures, engravings of
saints, and other articles which pilgrims love to carry back to
their homes. Within the enclosure trees throw a cool shade, under
which, as in the courtyards of mosques in Constantinople, the hot
and weary may repose.
The cathedral dedicated to the ascension of the Virgin, has not
the slightest pretence to external architecture. The walls are
mostly whitewashed, and some of the windows have common square
heads crowned by mean pediments; the intervening pilasters and
floral decorations in relief, and all in the midst of whitewash,
are of the poorest character. The seven gilded cupolas or domes
may be compared to inverted cups surmounted by crosses. The form
resembles the cup commonly combined in the fantastic towers and
spires of Protestant churches in Germany, where, however, it has
been supposed to signify that the laity partake of the chalice.
These domes are made further decorative at the point of the small
circular neck which connects the cupola with the upper member or
finial; around this surface is painted a continuous series of single
saints standing; the effect of these pictures against the sky,
if not quite artistic, is striking. Other parts of the exterior
may indicate Italian rather than Oriental origin, but the style
is far too mongrel to boast of any legitimate parentage. Here,
as in the Kremlin, are external wall-paintings of saints, some
standing on solid ground, others sitting among clouds; the Madonna
is of course of the company, and the First and Second Persons of
the Trinity crown the composition. The ideas are trite and the
treatment is contemptible--the colours pass from dirty red into
brown and black. These certainly are the worst wall-paintings I
have ever met with, worse even than the coarsest painted shrines
on the waysides of Italy; indeed no Church save the Greek Church
would tolerate an art thus debased.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account