We walked boldly into the barracks; I doubt if a woman had been in
before, but I did not attract much attention. A few soldiers gathered
round us to hear our explanation to the officer in charge. One or two
smiled, the rest looked at me blankly. What Andrev said of course I do
not know, except that I understood the officer to ask if we were
Bolshevik. Apparently if we were not Bolsheviks we must get permission
from the Commandant of the Kremlin before a soldier could be sent to me.
Off we went in search of the Commandant. Oh! the dark passages and the
stuffy offices; they smelt as if the air belonged to bygone ages. I am
sure no fresh air ever leaks in. From there to the military store to
obtain an overcoat. They lent me a new one; it was an enormous goatskin.
More smells! No living goat ever could have smelt stronger. Andrev,
staggering under the weight and the unwieldy size, carried it to my
studio to await the soldier’s arrival to-morrow. The room reeks of it.
My idea is a statuette--only in Russia could one find such a silhouette.
It was still early and I did not want to go home, so we wandered to the
Palace, opened more doors, and after a little conversation with some men
in an office, one of them took us to see the Museum and the Armoury.
This was a great revelation, and I regretted not having seen it before
so that I could have had time to go often again. Our guide spoke French,
and knew all the things intimately. He talked of them with pride and
almost with love. Everything was beautifully arranged. There were glass
cases full of Romanoff crowns, jewel studded, and sceptres and harness
and trappings set with precious stones. One really got quite dazzled by
them. The armour is very fine, I believe, but that I know nothing about
and it does not interest me. What I loved were the old coaches. There
was one given by Queen Elizabeth of England, the most beautiful bit of
painted carving I have ever seen. The French Louis XV and XVI coaches
looked vulgar next to it. There was a room full of silver and gold cups.
I believe that this contains the finest collection of English Charles II
silver in the world. Moreover so many cups had been collected recently
from the churches that there were long wooden trestles covered with
them, and they were in process of being catalogued. In the last room
were exhibited all the old costumes, church vestments and beautiful
brocades. The Coronation robe of Catherine the Great was there, and
others that had been wedding and Coronation robes of various other
Tsarinas. It is wonderful that these things should have remained unhurt
throughout the Revolution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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