When we had all somewhat recovered from this, the policemen, catching
the spirit of the occasion, explained to the men that I and my money
were extremely dangerous to the Orthodox, both families and bachelors,
especially to pious pilgrims to the shrines, such as they were, and they
gently but firmly compelled the men to move on, despite their vehement
protestations that they were willing to run the risk and accept the
largest sort of change from the heretic. But I was obdurate. I knew from
experience that for five kopeks, or less, I should receive thanks,
reverences to the waist or even to the ground; but that the gift of more
than five kopeks would result in a thankless, suspicious stare, which
would make me feel guilty of some enormous undefined crime. This was
Count Tolstoy's experience also. We devoted ourselves to cabby once
more.
Such a winning fellow as that Vanka was, from the very start! After I
had concluded the bargain for an extra horse and an apron which his
carriage lacked, he persuaded me that one horse was enough--at the
price of two. To save time I yielded, deducting twenty-five cents only
from the sum agreed on, lest I should appear too easily cheated. That
sense of being ridiculed as an inexperienced simpleton, when I had
merely paid my interlocutor the compliment of trusting him, never ceased
to be a pain and a terror to me.
The friendly policemen smiled impartially upon Vanka and us, as they
helped to pack us in the drosky.
Tula as we saw it on our way out, and as we had seen it during our
morning stroll, did not look like a town of sixty-four thousand
inhabitants, or an interesting place of residence. It was a good type of
the provincial Russian town. There were the broad unpaved, or badly
paved, dusty streets. There were the stone official buildings, glaring
white in the sun, interspersed with wooden houses, ranging from the
pretentious dwelling to the humble shelter of logs.
For fifteen versts (ten miles) after we had left all these behind us, we
drove through a lovely rolling country, on a fine macadamized highway
leading to the south and to Kieff. The views were wide, fresh, and fair.
Hayfields, plowed fields, fields of green oats, yellowing rye,
blue-flowered flax, with birch and leaf trees in small groves near at
hand, and forests in the distance, varied the scene. Evergreens were
rarer here, and oak-trees more plentiful, than north of Moscow. The
grass by the roadside was sown thickly with wild flowers: Canterbury
bells, campanulas, yarrow pink and white, willow-weed (good to
adulterate tea), yellow daisies, spiraea, pinks, corn-flowers, melilot,
honey-sweet galium, yellow everlasting, huge deep-crimson crane's-bill,
and hosts of others.
Throughout this sweet drive my merry _izvostchik_ delighted me with his
discourse. It began thus. I asked, "Did he know Count Tolstoy?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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