We had, nominally, a wide latitude of choice, as all the lines made a
stop at our landing. But when we got tired of waiting for the steamer of
our preference,--the boats of all the lines being long overdue, as
usual, owing to low water in the river,--and took the first which
presented itself, we found that the latitude in choice, so far as
accommodations were concerned, was even greater than had been apparent
at first sight.
Fate allotted us one of the smaller steamers, the more commodious boats
having probably "sat down on a sand-bar," as the local expression goes.
The one on which we embarked had only a small dining-room and saloon,
one first-class cabin for men and one for women, all nearly on a level
with the water, instead of high aloft, as in the steamers which we had
hitherto patronized, and devoid of deck-room for promenading. The
third-class cabin was on the forward deck. The second-class cabin was
down a pair of steep, narrow stairs, whose existence we did not discover
when we went on board at midnight, and which did not tempt us to
investigation even when we arose the next morning. Fortunately, there
were no candidates except ourselves and a Russian friend for the six red
velvet divans ranged round the walls of the tiny "ladies' cabin," and
the adjoining toilet-room, and the man of the party enjoyed complete
seclusion in the men's cabin. In the large boats, for the same price, we
should have had separate staterooms, each accommodating two persons.
However, everything was beautifully clean, as usual on Russian steamers
so far as my experience goes, and it made no difference for one night.
The experience was merely of interest as a warning.
The city of Samara, as it presented itself to our eyes the next morning,
was the liveliest place on the river Volga next to Nizhni Novgorod.
While it really is of importance commercially, owing to its position on
the Volga and on the railway from central Russia, as a depot for the
great Siberian trade through Orenburg, the impression of alertness which
it produces is undoubtedly due to the fact that it presents itself to
full view in the foreground, instead of lying at a distance from the
wharves, or entirely concealed. An American, who is accustomed to see
railways and steamers run through the very heart of the cities which
they serve, never gets thoroughly inured to the Russian trick of taking
important towns on faith, because it has happened to be convenient to
place the stations out of sight and hearing, sometimes miles out of the
city. Another striking point about Samara is the abundance of red brick
buildings, which is very unusual, not to say unprecedented, in most of
the older Russian towns, which revel in stucco washed with white, blue,
and yellow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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