But the place where this spectacle can be seen in the most charming way
is Tzarskoe Selo. We were favored with superb weather on both the festal
days. On Sunday morning every one went to church, as usual. The small
church behind the Lyceum, where Pushkin was educated, with its
un-Russian spire, ranks as a Court church; that in the Old Palace across
the way being opened only on special occasions, now that the Court is
not in residence. Outside, the choir sat under the golden rain of acacia
blossoms and the hedge of fragrant lilacs until the last moment, the
sunshine throwing into relief their gold-laced black cloth vestments and
crimson belts. They were singers from one of the regiments stationed in
town, and crimson was the regimental color. The church is accessible to
all classes, and it was crowded. As at Easter, every one was clad in
white or light colors, even those who were in mourning having donned the
bluish-gray which serves them for festive garb. In place of the Easter
candle, each held a bouquet of flowers. In the corners of the church
stood young birch-trees, with their satin bark and feathery foliage, and
boughs of the same decked the walls. There is a law now which forbids
this annual destruction of young trees at Pentecost, but the practice
continues, and the tradition is that one must shed as many tears for his
sins as there are dewdrops on the birch bough which he carries, if he
has no flowers. Peasant women in clean cotton gowns elbowed members of
the Court in silks; fat merchants, with well-greased, odorous hair and
boots, in hot, long-skirted blue cloth coats, stood side by side with
shabby invalid soldiers or smartly uniformed officers. Tiny peasant
children seated themselves on the floor when their little legs refused
further service, and imitated diligently all the low reverences and
signs of the cross made by their parents. Those of larger growth stood
with the preternatural repose and dignity of the adult Russian peasant,
and followed the liturgy independently. One little girl of seven,
self-possessed and serenely unconscious, slipped through the crowd to
the large image of the Virgin near the altar, grasped the breast-high
guard-rail, and kissed the holy picture in the middle of her agile
vault. When some members of the imperial family arrived, the crowd
pressed together still more closely, to make a narrow passage to the
small space reserved for them opposite the choir. After the ever
beautiful liturgy, finely expressed special prayers were offered, during
which the priest also carried flowers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account