Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
Effort is absolutely futile, and we turn dormant as stones that
wait the passing of time under unhappy exposure. Indeed, except for
agitations beneath our coverings when pain becomes unbearable, we
lie as in our graves. And all the while the sand-burdened blizzard
seethed and boiled and rushed ever onward; darkening the day almost
to night, and fogging the landscape so that eye could not see more
than a yard within the haze.
Hour succeeded hour . . . and the day passed. . . . and there was
no camp-fire, no food, and no happiness, for the wrath of Allah
continued through the land.
III
Again, with rude storms past, the elements lapse drearily to their
accustomed routine, governed, without heart, by the Power of the Sun.
And it is under those conditions that the traveller in the desert
must chiefly toil, or, failing to toil, sink beneath the weight of
undermining, brain-drugging heat and monotony.
Wherefore a commonplace day finds me toiling the sand in a
God-forgotten recess of the world. I have killed some meat for the
camp, but that hardly interests me. I am aware that I am “off
colour”—almost ill. But I am more disturbed still by the
knowledge that I am weary, and not so strong as I was; and that
slowly, insidiously, the sun is sapping my life-blood.
A Tuareg stranger is with my follower, who carries the gazelle. I
hear the man being told exaggerated stories of my shooting
capabilities:
“He kills whether they stand or run.”
And again:
“If a man walk for two days this white man still fit to reach
him with gun.”
I wanly smile; in no mood for laughter.
Slowly we trudge toward camp. It is about noon, and desperately
hot. But I am thinking neither of the remorseless sting of the
sun nor of the desolation of Africa: _I am wondering if I dare
break into one of our last bottles of whisky if I go under again
with fever_. It is the priceless medicine of the exhausted and
malaria-stricken, and the meagre store cannot last to the end.
On entering camp, however, my thoughts are turned into other
channels. The camels have just been watered, and recline on the
sand. About half of them have sores to be doctored, ugly, suppurating
saddle wounds and foot wounds, fly-ridden and ill healing; so bad
that every now and then they claim a victim in death. For an hour
I work with scissors and knife among filth and disinfectant: crude,
intimate surgery that might have turned me sick if it had not been
a daily task for a long time.
The animals were then turned loose to find what scrub they could
about the old well-head. But soon they lay down in the hot sun,
_for there was next to nothing to eat_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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