Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
Water was about a quarter of a mile away at the head of a sandy
inlet. A bird of good omen swung slowly in the air over it: the
White Vulture, that is known to the nomads as _Kargi Mulet_. Tuareg
folklore teaches that: “If a traveller is in country that he is
not familiar with and sees _Kargi Mulet_ planing slowly to and fro
in the sky, it is sure news that water, or people, or game will
be found beneath where it flies. Wherefore, if anyone is lost,
the sight of this bird is an omen of succour near at hand.”
To find permanent open water is very surprising in such surroundings,
consequently the conditions under which it exists are of the utmost
interest. A few such rock-pools and ancient wells, for the most part
separated about five, six, or seven days’ march, afford the only
means of obtaining water in the uttermost interior of the Sahara.
Tamengouit is on latitude 20°. A chasm, that carries heavy weight
of water during rare storms, leads from the distant hills out to
the level sand. Just above the mouth it narrows to a long, deep
gulch with high walls that completely shut out the sun. It is so
narrow that it can be leapt across overhead. Down in the bottom,
all along its length, lie deep black waters, inaccessible, because
of the cliff walls, except at the mouth and at the top end.
One or two specimens, shot while flying overhead, pitched into the
chasm and could not be gathered. There is no seepage through the
rocks, and the secret of the water’s permanent existence is surely
in the fact that the all-absorbing sun cannot reach it. Gloomy and
cool, the chasm interior is as a thick-walled tank that no influence
of the elements can penetrate.
Remarkable in itself, this rock basin is equally remarkable on
account of bird life. In camp on the first night I heard Sandgrouse
calling at dusk, and in the night; and knew they were flighting
out of the clear sky, from unknown feeding grounds, to slake their
thirst in the still chasm. Their presence was certain assurance of
water known to the wild, and I turned to sleep expectant of a busy
day on the morrow.
And I was not disappointed. Early morning found me at the pool,
where a few Coronated Sandgrouse and Barred Sandgrouse still remained
from the flocks of overnight. Otherwise all was yet quiet, but I
could foresee change whenever the morning feeding time was over, for
there were plenty of feathers and toe-prints at the water’s edge,
to tell that numerous birds were in the habit of drinking there.
[Illustration: TWO MALE OSTRICHES
COLLECTED ON THE SOUTHERN SHORES OF THE SAHARA]
I spent the time searching for Nightjars among the rocky flats
beyond the chasm. Those nocturnal birds are very difficult to find,
because of their perfect protective colouring among the rocks where
they hide during the day, and their habit of remaining still until
almost trodden upon. My search proved fruitless, and I returned to
the water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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