Natural history -- Sahara; Sahara -- Description and travel
Feri n’Gashi’s death cast a heavy cloud over our thoughts for
the remainder of the day. Nevertheless, we had much to occupy us
in other directions, for we proposed catching the train which left
for the coast that night. All our strange assortment of outdoor
baggage had to be relieved of their camel trappings and made to
look as respectable as possible, then labelled and conveyed down
the dusty track to the station. It was dark before the task was done.
Glover and I then enjoyed a square meal at the wood-framed “Hôtel
Oases,” and laid in some supplies for the journey; particularly
French cigarettes and drinks.
At 9 p.m. the train departed from Touggourt for Algiers, bearing
the stock of weather-worn possessions of an expedition, and four
tattered, but tolerably healthy-looking wanderers—Glover, myself,
and the two natives, Ali and Sakari. The two latter were vastly
intrigued with their new mode of travel, particularly with the idea
of their sitting still while they flew over the country without the
necessity of their doing a stroke of work or undergoing a moment’s
physical fatigue.
During the journey one thing made us all as delighted and happy as
children—the wonderful green landscape after leaving Biskra. We
never tired of feasting our eyes on the uncommon beauty of the
countryside, so green with cultivation, and even decked with
flowers. To our sand-tired vision it was a marvellous sight, and
we knew then, undoubtedly, that we had left the desert behind.
On June 7th we reached Algiers, and were met by the British
Vice-Consul, Mr. Gallienne, who gave us a real welcome. He was a man
of wonderful foresight, for we had just exchanged greetings when he
put his hand in his pocket and produced some English tobacco, saying:
“I thought you might be in need of this.” We were so much in
need of it that we almost embraced the poor man in our joy. Tobacco
had been our most difficult “want” to cope with for many months.
One thing tickled Gallienne’s imagination. I caught him looking at
me; whereupon he explained: “You know, I had pictured you _lean,
and about seven feet tall, and with a broad Scot’s accent_. You
are certainly _lean_, but I’ll need to take quite a foot off that
stature; as for your accent, it’s no’ verra hieland.”
He was indeed a real good soul, for, when we got into quarters,
he set out on all sorts of strange errands, and seemed to enjoy the
fun of dress rehearsal in preparing two tattered ragamuffins for the
exacting stage of civilisation. Collars, ties, shirts, underclothing,
hats: all are difficult articles to choose for other men at any
time, but more than difficult when the persons they are intended
for have forgotten the sizes of everything they used to wear.
[Illustration: BUCHANAN
AT THE END OF THE JOURNEY]
Those were crowded hours of wonderful joy, such as only men may
experience who come in at last from the long trail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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